The Family Wall Rock Climbing
View from top of Family Crag
The first cliff you come to at Shell Pond when you're following the trail. Climbs are all about a pitch, and range from easy 5.2s to 5.12s. Most are fairly well protected but some are extremely run out. There's a wonderful open bluff at the top of the cliff with a great view of the pond.
The Family Wall is an 80' steep slab with routes 5.5-5.11 trad and sport. A 60 meter rope will work for top-roping off the cliff's top trees. Descent is a trail on climbers left. Due to low visitor use, some routes could use a wire brush.
There are two ways to approach off NH Rt 113, either by Deer Hill Rd (shortest walk but seasonally gated) or by Stone House Rd. They both have road name signs.
Deer Hill Rd approach to Family Wall:
Drive 30 minutes north from N Conway/Fryeburg toward Evans Notch on Rt 113 to Deer Hill Rd on the right (Summit Achievement sign at road head). Drive 3.8 miles on Deer Hill Rd to a small pull off on the left. Walk 50 yds to start of Shell Pond Trail. Follow Shell Pond trail for 10 (+/-) minutes until you come to Family Wall's faint climber's path on your right (there may be a cairn).
From the cairn, walk along the nearly flat path a few minutes until the path passes a huge boulder. Here, the trail steepens and swings around to the left and climbs steeply back to the right and the base of the cliff at the climb "The Trunk". (About 8-10 min from the main trail.)
NOTE: Around the local of the huge boulder you may see orange flagging tape leading off right. This leads to a somewhat ugly scramble on pine-needle-encrusted slab, that gets you to the base of the cliff near its middle. Not recommended, but do-able. It saves no time.
Stone House Rd approach to Family Wall:
Continue north on Rt 113 1.1 miles past Bald Face parking lot to Stone House Rd on right (0.9 miles south of Basin Pond road on left). Follow Stone House Rd a short distance and take a right at T intersection. Continue on main road until you reach a gate closure and parking lot at 1.1 miles. Walk past gate toward Stone House. Don't take first Shell Pond Trail on right but continue on road past White Cairn Trail and Stone House Trail on your left to a LARGE field/landing strip on the right side of road near the Stone House. Walk the road in the middle of the field (avoiding the Stone House and being low key) for a beautiful half mile (Main Wall will come into sight high on left ridge) until you cross an ATV bridge on Shell Pond Trail.Go right after crossing bridge on Shell Pond trail another 25 minutes (left at fork) and look for faint climbers trail on your left. 10 minutes uphill and you're at the Family Wall.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 7.2 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Family Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Family Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Family Wall:
Featured Route For The Family Wall
Flake Route 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Maine
: Shell Pond
: The Family Wall
START - About 30-40 ft from where the approach trail meets the cliff, Below the obvious left-facing corner/flake that is about 20 ft up. [photo]P1 - Climb up to the corner/flake, step left at the top (bolt seems to have replaced the old pin) and up to the large pine tree ledge. Move up the slab on the right (bolt) to the right-leaning crack. Up this (crux maybe 5.7+?, bolt, optional nut placements) to the top. Belay off trees. 100 ft 5.7 / 5.7+...[more] Browse More Classics in Maine