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The Falcon 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 692
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 12, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: 'The Falcon' (10b) Ascends the short but fun dihed...


Across the road from King Otto's Castle lies this north-facing crag which several good routes to choose from. This climb on the central portion of the wall and climbs thin crack in a large right-facing corner.

Jam the thin vertical crack passing a slight bulge two-thirds of the way up (crux). Continue up past easier terrain to a notch and belay. Walk off to the climber's right.

A great crack route that is as good as Right V Crack, but far less crowded and less greasy with a slightly longer approach. One of many lesser known gems of Indian Cove.


Gear to 3"

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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 16, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun, secure, and easy to protect. Perhaps a little easier than most of the 10b's I did in Indian Cove, but admittedly a little strenuous. A good 10b lead for those pushing into the grade.
By Richard Shore
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Strenuous to place gear, and you have to commit a few moves up into the vertical corner before getting your first piece. I never felt secure on this one. Mostly thin fingers and tips for my sausages, while stemming and/or liebacking. Biggest piece I used was a .5 camalot. There is a large boulder above that can be slung for an anchor, also equipped with fixed rap slings/rings.
By Ryan Bracci
From: San Juan Capistrano, CA
Feb 13, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought the gear was tricky. I recommend a few small offsets and some offset nuts to help in those flaring spots. Didn't use anything bigger than a #2. The slung boulder up top looks a bit sun-worn and tatty as of Feb. 2017.

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