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Joe Brown
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Eye, The TR 
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The Eye 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  TR, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 2,703
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Mar 1, 2007  with updates from Fonde Jr.

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: The Eye Topo


A good climb. Start below and to the left of the obvious 'eye' in the rock. Make some hard moves up and along a rail until you have the eye by the socket.

Don't hang around too long before heading up onto easier ground.


Located just left of center on the steep West face.


Slings and bolts provide good anchors.

Two top-roping bolts on top of Joe Brown boulder are loose and rusted. I would not trust them. Need replacement.

Photos of The Eye Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Noelle Ladd
Noelle Ladd
Rock Climbing Photo: Noelle Ladd
Noelle Ladd
Rock Climbing Photo: Brandon chalking up
Brandon chalking up
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnny gets the key right foot on the eye
BETA PHOTO: Johnny gets the key right foot on the eye
Rock Climbing Photo: Noelle Ladd
Noelle Ladd

Comments on The Eye Add Comment
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By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 13, 2008

Bolts exist on top, but no slings. These bolts are quite hammered--literally. They've been hammered flat and then pried up again. It is possible to back up the bolts using the remains of the iron guardrail.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Dec 31, 2010

I've never climbed 11b/c but I would venture to guess this climb is easier than that. Maybe mid to high tens? I'm six three, maybe that makes things easier on this climb. All that said, this is a great climb. Figuring out how to work the rail up to the eye was the crux. I reclimbed it twice cause it's that fun.
By Drew Hecht
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

An area classic. It's a great, albeit short, climb that is pretty sustained up to the "eye". I'm 5'6" and I think it's a bit of a bouldery problem for shorter people.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jan 29, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I agree with Justin that the rating on "The Eye" is more realistically 5.10+ (ie 5.10d). Great moves on steep, positive orange and red features. Deciphering the sequence on the red rail before The Eye seems to be the ticket to success.

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