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The Expedition 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ken Noyce (11/23/2012)
New Route: Yes
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 1,460
Submitted By: Ken Noyce on Nov 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Finishing up the crux moves on the FA of The Exped...

Description 

This is a fun route that starts off with some easy 5.8 climbing through the first 4 bolts, the crux is then encountered as you make some balancy moves between the fifth and sixth bolts. After the sixth bolt, the climbing eases up until one final V1 boulder problem between the last bolt and the anchors.

Location 

Just right of Rabble Rouser.

Protection 

8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor with mussy hooks


Photos of The Expedition Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux move on The Expedition.
Crux move on The Expedition.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling through the crux on the FA
Pulling through the crux on the FA
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving on up The Expedition.
Moving on up The Expedition.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers doing some laps on a couple good routes.....
Climbers doing some laps on a couple good routes.....
Rock Climbing Photo: The Expedition (5.11b), Frustration Creek
BETA PHOTO: The Expedition (5.11b), Frustration Creek

Comments on The Expedition Add Comment
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By ...........................
Nov 25, 2012

Good work. Route looks awesome. Cant wait to hop on the rig
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Sep 29, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

just did the route today, bolts and hangers all look good. Mussy hooks for anchors
By Dustin Stephens
May 6, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Good climbing. Crux (5th) bolt is poorly positioned and could easily lead to being flipped in a fall, detracts quite a bit from an otherwise very good line.
By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
May 8, 2017

The crux bolt was placed where it was due to the fact that it was the only solid patch of rock in the vicinity. Not sure how it could flip you over though as I've taken the clean fall from the crux quite a few times, maybe you're doing the crux differently than it was intended to be climbed?
By Dustin Stephens
May 8, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

"Intended"? Not sure what that means with regard to a piece of naturally occuring rock. The bolt would have been much better placed a foot to the right, and the rock quality is the same there. In any case, the route made for a very enjoyable toprope as-is, but I doubt I would lead it again.
By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
May 9, 2017

Just as an FYI, the rock quality was not the same a foot to the right. I tapped on the rock all over that area hoping to place the bolt about a foot to the right as you suggested, but all the rock in that area sounded hollow which means that it is fractured. The rock where I placed the bolt was the only rock in that area that sounded solid.

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