|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 280', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Jonathan & Brian Smoot, 1981|
|Submitted By:||bsmoot on Jun 21, 2009|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Epitaph||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ben Folsom
Jun 22, 2009
|This route has a burly start!!|
By Bill Duncan
From: Jamestown, CO
Apr 30, 2010
|Beautiful jams on this route! We found that 4 each of hand and fist sized cams are very nice to have. We also used #4, 4.5, 5, and 6 camalots on the 3rd pitch. Very nice to have large gear. Felt 10ish in more than one spot on that pitch. The crux of the route is definitely the first few moves off the ground.|
Apr 4, 2011
This place is rad.
Though after 20 years here I still am often left to wonder what is the standard desert rack?!
By Naomi Galinski
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
|The start was definitely cruxy but the rest of the first pitch was stellar. The second pitch was very hard in the squeeze chimney into roof section. The rock had hardly any friction and lots of chunks broke off as I tried to climb the hand crack roof using some face holds for feet and hand. My first experience with bad sandstone climbing.|
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
Apr 14, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
A small nut protects the opening moves fairly well. Other than that, double set of cams from .4-4, with an extra #2 and 4-5 total #3's, optional #5. The first belay can be backed up with as many #3's as you want to place.
Not sure why Karl's book recommends 2x70m ropes for the rappel from the top of P2. 2x60m works fine. If you don't mind star drives and quarter inch SMC bolts, you could probably get down with one rope (70m?) and two rappels.
We found pitch three to be more like 5.8 fists/chimney rather than an easy scramble. We led and then down-led the 30' above the rappel bolts, with a short scramble to the summit. YMMV.
A bit sandy and wide, but overall a pretty good route and an impressively moderate passage up a cool formation with minimal approach. Recommended!