REI Community
Illusion Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Epic Tail of Sir Norbert, The T 
Excalibur T 
Page, The T,S 

The Epic Tail of Sir Norbert 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,640
Submitted By: Chris Hagen on Aug 16, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The route's namesake adding his 2 cents.

Description 

A new and improved route goes down on the Illusion Wall in Squire Creek in Darrington!! We say new and improved, because Darrington is known for its heady, long, run-out slab routes, and this, my friends, is quite the contrary! Long, heady… a bit, but it takes gear, and lot of it! It follows the prow of the illusion wall up discontinuous cracks, and knobby slabs all the way to the highpoint of the wall. This route is not a first ascent, but rather a cleaner line than one might find in a modern Darrington route, and one that brings many different lines together. I’d like to give a shout out to Zippy, the godfather of this valley. He has climbed all over the walls of this valley, hundreds of times and has many an epic story of his own. You may see some his old bolts as you discover your own epic tail.

This route sits about 30ft right of Schizoprenic.

Pitch 1: 35m 5.9: This pitch starts out in a dirty crack system on the first of two starting ledges on northern tier of the Illusion Wall and trends right to a thin seam protected by two bolts and up to the anchors. Belay to the left of a large tree. Gear to 2”
Pitch 2: 60 m 5.8: This is the least impressive pitch on the route. Follow the discontinuous cracks up towards a bushy ledge. Move right to gain the ledge. Continue between the two trees find the bolted anchors. Gear to 4”
Pitch 3: 50m 5.9+: This is where the climbing gets good!! Follow discontinuous cracks, trending right, to a short squeeze chimney, yes a squeeze chimney in Darrington! Belay from the ledge above. Gear to 4” Optional #5
Pitch 4: 45m 5.10: (The knobby pitch): Start from the ledge and climb straight up, past 2 bolts to a lie back finger crack. Continue right, through a few cracks to a ledge. Follow the knobby face left, passing 6 bolts, to a set of anchors. Gear to 1”
Pitch 5: 35m 5.10-: From the anchors climb knobby terrain past 3 bolts, (one with a wire loop as a hanger) to a gorgeous crack that goes from fingers, to hands, to fists, oh my! Gear to 3.5”.
Pitch 6: 40m 5.10+: (The fingers pitch): This is the first crux pitch of the route and absolutely amazing!! Move up through several crack systems, stepping left below the bush. Follow a knobby face up past 1 bolt, past an old set of anchors and into the finger crack above. Follow that up to a large bush then test your ape index as you move right, towards the anchors. Lots of small gear! Gear to 2”.
Pitch 7: 20m 5.10+: Crux pitch number 2. Move up through the small seam past one bolt to a bush. When you see a the baby head sticking out of the wall, move left onto the other side of the face to find a left facing corner crack. Climb up and back right again when the crack closes up. Climb left to the belay in a small alcove.
Pitch 8: 30m 5.10: This pitch moves up through and thin roof, past an old bolt and some brake down, trending right to a small ledge, just below an old snag.
Pitch 9: 30m 5.10-: Climb up to the snag and from there, traverse left onto the tower. Move left into a crack system in the middle of the tower and follow that up to an amazing ledge.
Pitch 10: 40m 5.9: Follow a finger crack to right, then move right into a sausage finger crack above. Follow discontinuous cracks, past a snag, to the summit!

Location 

This route can be found on the Illusion Wall in Squire Creek.

Approach: Blake Herrington does a great job explaining the approach in his book “Cascades Rock”. Here is an excerpt from his book: Drive I-5 north from Seattle to exit 208 and follow Highway 530 N. East for 32 miles to the small town of Darrington. Turn right on Commercial Avenue and drive for a few blocks to the south end of town. Take a right on Darrington Street which runs east to west through the southern end of Darrington. Follow that road, staying left at the Y in the road. The road will turn to dirt and you’ll encounter several switchbacks along the way. Follow the road until it ends in a small parking area. Approximate travel time from Highway 530 is 15 minutes.
From the parking lot walk about 45 minutes on an old decommissioned Forest Road, crossing three major river drainages. After the third major drainage, follow the climbers trail downhill to the right, being sure to stay to the left of the creek bed. Eventually, you'll reach Squire Creek. Approximate travel time from Forest Road is 10 minutes. Cross the large log across the creek and head upstream about 300 feet. There are you encounter a rocky creek bed on the right. Follow this creek bed for about ¼ of a mile where you will find a climbers trail on the right-hand side just past the large tree. It is about 5-7 minutes from Squire Creek. Follow this trail uphill for about 30-45 mins to reach a small bivy spot at the beginning of the 3rd/4th class section. This place is known as “Big Tree”. Continue up the exposed 4th class slab, and exit at a small lip where there is a bolt and a fixed line. From there follow the path of least resistance up a drainage, trending left along the base of the wall. You will pass several fixed lines as you make your way to the base of Illusion Wall. When you reach the base of the wall, Sir Norbert’s route will be the first route on the right. The base of Illusion wall has two platforms. The southern platform is home a bivy spot that can hold up to 6 people. Please note, however that the nearest water is Squire Creek. Approximate travel time from the lower slabs, 45 minutes. In total, the approach generally takes 2–3 hours.

Descent: Rappel the route. All pitches are equipped with rappel rings except for Pitch 6 and pitch 8.

Protection 

Standard Rack to 4” doubles .3 – 3” and 1 set of C3’s Optional #5
Double 60m Ropes
Bolted Anchors with Rappel Rings


Photos of The Epic Tail of Sir Norbert Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Passing the old anchors, stoked for the 5.10+ fing...
Passing the old anchors, stoked for the 5.10+ fing...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last year there were fires in the valley.  Just an...
Last year there were fires in the valley. Just an...
Rock Climbing Photo: The day we finally completed the route it started ...
The day we finally completed the route it started ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt pondering if he brought the right shoes.
Matt pondering if he brought the right shoes.
Rock Climbing Photo: The pitch 7 anchors.  These anchors have a yellowi...
The pitch 7 anchors. These anchors have a yellowi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the long right trending crack of pitc...
Looking down the long right trending crack of pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome knob climbing to finish up pitch 4
Awesome knob climbing to finish up pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Packard making his way through the squeeze chimney...
Packard making his way through the squeeze chimney...
Rock Climbing Photo: The bivy spot
The bivy spot
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Chris in the squeeze chimney from th...
Looking up at Chris in the squeeze chimney from th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Delicious knobby climbing on Pitch 4.
Delicious knobby climbing on Pitch 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alan doing work!
Alan doing work!
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy nearing the top of pitch 5.
Jeremy nearing the top of pitch 5.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta
BETA PHOTO: Beta
Rock Climbing Photo: Stepping out into knobby deliciousness on Pitch 5.
Stepping out into knobby deliciousness on Pitch 5.

Comments on The Epic Tail of Sir Norbert Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 16, 2016

Looks fantastic. Thanks for the full description.

On P7, what is "the baby head"?
By Chris Hagen
Aug 17, 2016

The baby head is a knob of rock that has a striking resemblance to a baby's head, in size and in shape. It's important to note it as there is a large bush directly above it that could provide much more additional challenge than simply going left. :)
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 17, 2016

This route keeps getting more and more interesting.

Thanks-
By Andrew Davidson
From: Everett, WA
Aug 30, 2016

This route has some fun pitches, I really enjoyed 3 thru 7. Good solid climbing. Though I never did see the baby head on pitch 7. As for pitch 8, the "brake down" is about 35' of 5.7 over hollow sounding rock with not very good pro, wasn't a huge fan. The last two pitches are ok, they would feel a lot better if they weren't dirty.
I noticed that all the rappel stations, the hangers and rings all had a yellowish hue. My only thought is that it is the zinc-chromate coating coming off. If that is the case, means a bad combo for the stainless bolts holding them. There are new SS bolt/hangers on route, nice, but quite a few are still the 20+ year old bolts Zippy put in. Would of been nice to see them replaced with new SS. With that said, I say the route is 2 star in its current state. But with a little cleaning/trundling and hardware updating. It could be another 4 stars route.
By Shaun Johnson
Sep 5, 2016

Adding another shout out to ZIPPY!

That dude is one of a kind.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About