|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]|
|Submitted By:||Kurtz on Aug 28, 2012|
|Comments on The Entertainer||Add Comment|
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May 21, 2015
This route provides great entertainment for those looking for some thin crux moves protected by a single, finicky cam of arguable quality, placed from a bit of a strenuous stance. A slightly runout start and a hollow flake up high only add to the show!
However, what this route may be lacking in G-rated safety, it makes up for with excellent, beta-intensive movement.
The R rating provided may be deserved for those attempting an on-sight.
Multiple options exist. You may decide to build an anchor on the ledge about 10ft down from the top of the cliff. It is also possible to build an anchor without going down to the ledge, or even getting too close to the cliff edge. For this, you will need a good amount of webbing/static line to properly position the master-point. Locate a shallow, flaring crack about 12 long, skiers left of the arete. Small/medium tricams and/or medium stoppers fit here. About 6 feet skiers right of this is a deeper crack that fits medium tricams and/or 0.5/0.75 C4s. This crack is nearly in line with where most parties choose to put their anchors master-point, which is just a few inches climbers right of the arete on the ledge.