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Unsorted Routes:

The Enigma 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 750'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,787
Submitted By: Mike Reardon on Jan 12, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: P2 - Enigma. Looking down on P2. As Mike says......

Description 

We were surprised to find no evidence of previous climbers on what is the longest moderate at the Glass. Mostly 5.7 and under climbing with a crux 20' off the ground.
P1: (5.8+, 170 ft) Follow the easy slab to a blocky right facing corner. Pull the crux corner protected by two small nuts below your feet, then up a knobby face right of the Southender crack (you also have the option to climb the better protected crack). Gear belay on a ledge over the top of the right hand rhodo patch.
P2: (5.7-, 180 ft) Climb the eyebrow studded face with unbelievable friction to a two bolt anchor.
P3: (5.5, 200 ft) Continue on the face, move left to a water groove that keeps the climbing interesting. Walk right on the parking lot sized ledge for a gear belay under the right most leaning crack.
P4: (5.7, 215 ft) Climb the right hand crack/ ledge. Pass a rhodo, then move left onto the face aiming for a big pine tree. “Walk” to the top. Note: you may have to split this into two pitches or do some easy simul climbing. You could continue on another 60 foot pitch but we didn't since it was dirty.
Decent: Two 60 meter ropes at least. Watch the ends of your ropes!

Location 

15 feet right of Southender on the far left end of the South Face.

Protection 

Standard


Photos of The Enigma Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 - Enigma.  We continued up face and then right ...
BETA PHOTO: P3 - Enigma. We continued up face and then right ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 of the Enigma; amazing friction! Also, the...
Pitch 2 of the Enigma; amazing friction! Also, the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Final pitches of the Enigma and Southender extensi...
BETA PHOTO: Final pitches of the Enigma and Southender extensi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up the 4th pitch of the Enigma
Coming up the 4th pitch of the Enigma

Comments on The Enigma Add Comment
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By Barrett Pauer
From: Brevard, NC
Jan 17, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We started on southender and linked into this climb on pitch two. We broke it up into 7 pitches which worked out really well. Great long climb.
By b.t.miller
From: Charlotte, NC
Aug 16, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: P1 Question
P1 Question


Mike -- does P1 go up to and through the small white right-facing corner in this image (left area of photo)? LG was soaked when we arrived the other day so we opted into P1 Southender, which was also soaked and scary as it turned out.

Really interesting route so thanks to Mike for sending/posting! Not too many 5.8's in NC that are around 750'.

P1 - if P1 of Enigma is wet, try Southender. Fantastic P1 with challenging crux. 175' to gear belay above rhododendrons.

P2 - climbed straight up the face for about 185' to the 2-bolt anchor. Pro was fantastic and double ropes seemed to result in very little drag.

P3 - We continued on the face to the right of the bolts and quickly moved into the right water groove. 5.4 maybe? 60m ropes left us a little short of belaying in the cracks on the upper right side of the parking lot ledge. 200'+ Instead we anchored near the rap tree and then moved the belay up 15' before starting P4.

P4 - Interesting. We climbed the slab/dihedral as described but went a little further than the route description before transitioning back to the left and off the slab-walk. We then climbed straight up instead of moving up and left to the pine tree (pine tree was well to climbers left at this point). Gear was thin and climbing seemed sustained for about 30' of 5.8-. 200'. Belayed on natural gear after cleaning out some serious moss/lichen.

Descent
We traversed slightly down and 40' to climbers right to rap off a cedar tree back to the deciduous tree rap on P3 belay (~175') -- there were two loose blocks on this rappel about midway. Then rapped to bolted anchors of P2 (you will need all 200' for this rap). Then rapped down to rhododendrons of P1 (185') which have a fair bit of old tat slung around various branches. One more rap to the ground (~175')

Rap was adventurous for sure. Be prepared and knot the ends of your ropes! It took us a while.
By Mike Reardon
Aug 16, 2015

B. T. That looks like it. Protects well with 2 small nuts. It's dry in the photo there just left of the wet streak and maybe 15 ft right of Southender. Climbing the first 200 feet of Southender then continuing in the black streak straight up is super fun too. Must have dry conditions. We called it southend vimicolor due to the blackness. The final pitch of it is pictured and a bit dirty but a fun crack nonetheless.
I would love to know if someone had been up there before us. No one seems to know. We did Enigma in Jan 14. Fun stuff!
By munkeybog
From: Columbia, SC
Jan 7, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Found and climbed this with the wife a few weeks back (Late fall 2015). Small Dihedral was wet (just like b.t.miller photo), or at least the water streak was wide enough above it to look dangerously slimy.
Climbed south ender until I could step over water streak. Good Choice. Could have be a gearless mucky cluster looking down the route. Not sure how one stays out of South Ender after the dihedral anyway.

Pitch 2 makes the whole route worthwhile. I called down to me Wife, "It's a Velcro Ladder!" Really fun. reminded me of the top 40 feet of Dinkus Dog, except 200' long.
By rock-fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Apr 8, 2016

P1 has a single cool move right off the deck that takes purple tcu or nuts then turns into a strange face climbing constantly within reach of a crack with a strange decision to protect or run it out - its not difficult climbing. P2 was fun and around 5.6. The rest is frankly not worthwhile being extremely low angled and strewn with exfoliated rocks and sticks or covered in lichen. Three Raps are straight forward with double 70s off b.t. miller's cedar tree anchor Double ropes aren't needed for the climbing - just makes getting down easier.

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