Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Dire Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Conn Route T 
Engagement, The S 
Impeachable Offense T 
Punching In A Dream S 
Questionable Ink T 
Snakebite Evangelist S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Engagement 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Lilygren 1993
Page Views: 713
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Apr 10, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Near the end of this route.

Check NPS for Closures


Super classic Rushmore 5.10 that may rival 'Deja Vu Prophecy'. Great exposure way above the highway on a steepening slab. Start in a short dihedral on a big ledge just left of a large block that sits at the bottom left corner of the overhanging orange face. Be careful of loose blocks! Finger to hand size gear is nice to have for reaching the first bolt. Link the bolts straight up, right of crescent arete, to a small point. From here you could finish out the Conn route to the top or rap into 'Snakebite Evangelist' for a sweet top-rope.


NW corner. Bolted black face left of large streaked wall that faces the road. One 60m rope rap.


11 bolts
.5-#1 BD (optional)
Chain anchors

Photos of The Engagement Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dire Spire from the road.  The engagement goes up ...
Dire Spire from the road. The engagement goes up ...

Comments on The Engagement Add Comment
Show which comments
Aug 22, 2014

Spectacular route. Thought I'd mention that a BD .5 with a long sling comes in handy to minimize the distance (20 ft) between the first two bolts.
By JimmyHann
From: Rapid City
Aug 7, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A 60m just BARELY makes it down.
By ShanJ2me
From: Rapid City, SD
Oct 18, 2015

A super fun route!, Go right after 1st bolt (placing a finger size piece in the layback crack will give you piece of mind getting to second bolt). Not your typical crystal pinching route- holds are very interesting-- I really enjoy this route!! a 70 meter rope was NICE to have!!
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jun 13, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I suppose this goes without saying, but since this is listed as a sport route and you don't really need gear for the climbing, one may wish to bring a small rack to anchor the belayer...

One comment about a single 60M rope and this route: As I was top belaying my follower up, the middle mark on my rope went through my belay device when my climber had climbed about 10-15 feet up from the ledge. As not all 60M ropes are created equal, I probably would err on the side of trailing an additional rope up for a double rope rap to be absolutely sure you will make it back down. YMMV.

Excellent route.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!