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Magic Mushroom TR 
Missing Piece T,TR 
V (aka The Vulva), The T,TR 

The Energizer 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 42
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Oct 29, 2007

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Energizer starts on the right arete and traverses ...

Description 

Hand crack through a small roof. Add the steep face at the top for extra fun.

Location 

Start on the outside corner to the left of "The V." Climb to the obvious handcrack, and use it. At the top, climber's choice.

Protection 

None for the first 15-20 feet. Do a few thin moves over a bad landing to start, then easier climbing to the roof where you have good gear. Or traverse in from "The V", and deal with rope drag.

Actually, this is probably most fun as a top-rope.


Photos of The Energizer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Thune, grabbing the thin crimp rail on "Tripl...
Thune, grabbing the thin crimp rail on "Tripl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Burt checks to see if his belayer is on the job or...
Burt checks to see if his belayer is on the job or...

Comments on The Energizer Add Comment
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By Tradiban
Aug 3, 2009

We did a variation of this today, "Triple Direct". Start just left of the arete (better than the right face start) and gain the ledge. Then go straight up the face without the crack on an awesome crimp ledge to a left hand throw. Then straight up to the top. 5.11b

On the regular route the crack itself provided for some interesting jamming.

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