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The Penguin
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Emperor's March, The S 
Penguin, The S 
Totally Gilligan T 

The Emperor's March 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: G. Kirchhoff, A. Mollard, May 2013
Page Views: 116
Submitted By: grk10vq on Sep 15, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: A view of the east face.


Every year Emperor penguins overcome great obstacles in order to return to their breeding grounds. The march of the penguins is an arduous, dangerous, and difficult battle to maintain survival and continue life. While this route does not end at a brothel, lets hope the trip to the top is nowhere near as similar?

A deceptive route that climbs The Penguin's proud east-face. Steeper than it looks, this line follows the path of least resistance. Described as "difficult to read", curiosity will be most beneficial, as will balance and fitness. Expect steep face climbing with hidden pockets and edges.

Start in the obvious wide crack and climb to a shallow ledge, clip a bolt and prepare for the funk. Lean left of the right-side arete and mantle a sloping shelf. Continue dead-center up the face following the bolt line. Plenty of holds exist, but finding them seems to be the crux.


Found on the direct, east face of The Penguin. This is the only line w/ black bolts.


Quick draws to a sling anchor. Optional #5 Camalot for the crack at the start.

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By John Steiger
Aug 2, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Worth doing, and could rise to multiple stars with some aggressive cleaning, and maybe another bolt to start (who carries a 5" cam in BCC?). I might have cheated though, cuz I certainly didn'’t stay directly in the bolt line after standing on the sloping shelf; still hard.
By grk10vq
Aug 2, 2015

who doesn't carry a 5" cam in BCC...?

i don't expect many will bring a #5 up there for the start,
i do expect people will complain about it.
i won't bolt anything that can be protected that nicely w/ a cam.

clean and solid climbing straight up the middle.

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