Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | A while ago |
Page Views: | 6,438 total · 30/month |
Shared By: | eric harvey on Oct 25, 2006 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
The Eighth route is the large gully just to the left of the Notch Couloir. It is just a large gully that goes all the way to the Palisades. In good conditions, there could be 500 feet of 60 degree ice in the lower part and possibly a WI4 chimney at the top.
Here's what it did have:
P1. Head straight up from Alexander's and pass the wall guarding the gully on the left at M2.
P2. Trend up and a bit right into the main gully. Could be good ice here, but we had thin ice and lots of turf (at least its bomber), not much pro. Some simulclimbing, WI2 M2, 300 feet.
P3-4. Climbing the gully till it ends below two chimneys. Snow covered rock steps... M2+ ?
P5. Traverse right up a thin slab (crux) and stretch to rope up to a very exposed position over looking the huge wall that forms the left side of the notch couloir.
P6. Sweeeeeeet. One M3+ move around a block with huge air below.
You can now rap into the Notch, if you can find the rap station (we couldn't) or you can walk off the back and descend the Loft or Lamb's Slide.
Here's what it did have:
P1. Head straight up from Alexander's and pass the wall guarding the gully on the left at M2.
P2. Trend up and a bit right into the main gully. Could be good ice here, but we had thin ice and lots of turf (at least its bomber), not much pro. Some simulclimbing, WI2 M2, 300 feet.
P3-4. Climbing the gully till it ends below two chimneys. Snow covered rock steps... M2+ ?
P5. Traverse right up a thin slab (crux) and stretch to rope up to a very exposed position over looking the huge wall that forms the left side of the notch couloir.
P6. Sweeeeeeet. One M3+ move around a block with huge air below.
You can now rap into the Notch, if you can find the rap station (we couldn't) or you can walk off the back and descend the Loft or Lamb's Slide.
3 Comments