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The Egg

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chris Minneci Memorial Route S 
Cracked Egg T 
Eat the Meek S 
Garbage Chutes T 
Go Van Gogh T 
Groovin' T 
Huevos Rancheros T,TR 
Jesus or Jeopardy S 
Just Say No to Crack S 
Leggo My Eggo S 
Lowe Blow T 
Old Peculier T 
Over Easy T 
Runnel Chunnel T 
Variety Delight T 
Windjammer T 

The Egg Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.57405, -111.76875 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,905
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 23, 2004
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: 1) Leggo My Eggo 2) Variety Delight 3) Just Say ...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Mostly bolted, and nicely angled. The granite here has pockets on most of the face. The climbs tend to be long and feel very exposed. Either do a 2-rope rappel or hike off to the west. A very warm area to climb. The highest of the deep winter crags.

Getting There 

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below The Egg. Continue on the switchbacks to the base of the routes. Do a small 4th class scramble to gain the routes.

This trail reduces visual and physical impact and is strongly recommended. It is good practice and helps maintain access.This approach isn't much longer and with more traffic, parking in this area will reduce your chances of a break-in.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.0 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Egg

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Egg:
Variety Delight   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Just Say No to Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Huevos Rancheros   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 150'   
Eat the Meek   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Groovin'   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Chris Minneci Memorial Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Lowe Blow   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Go Van Gogh   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Leggo My Eggo   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Jesus or Jeopardy   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Old Peculier   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 60'   
Cracked Egg   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Egg

Featured Route For The Egg
Rock Climbing Photo: Chunnel runs.

Runnel Chunnel 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : The Egg
Climbing the west end of The Egg formation “The Runnel” offers some interesting climbing. The crux is avoiding the inordinately large stack of rotten blocks that make up the left edge of the runnel. Start off an awkward series of low-angle slabs down about 50 feet from “Cracked Egg”- the climb's two bolts are fairly obvious. Climb up runout features from below or traverse in from the left on shrinking chickenheads and clip the first bolt. A second bolt comes quickly with a few slab moves...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of The Egg Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Egg and Dragon Arch
BETA PHOTO: Egg and Dragon Arch
Rock Climbing Photo: Murphski and I with eggs at the Egg.
Murphski and I with eggs at the Egg.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great Beta on how to approach The Egg
BETA PHOTO: Great Beta on how to approach The Egg
Rock Climbing Photo: The Egg.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Egg
Rock Climbing Photo: Egg w/o lines
BETA PHOTO: Egg w/o lines

Comments on The Egg Add Comment
Show which comments
By Vince Romney
Jul 26, 2004
I've climbed many times on the Egg in mid-winter during our 40-50 degree day warm-spells. It offers varied face and crack/groove climbing, with a particularly interesting (awkward) off-width (.9+) courtesy of George Lowe. Pretty much all easy to moderate climbs with a couple .10a's thrown in. Food for the odd day out.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 17, 2011
For approach - new trail leads to west side of egg and if you do the scramble up from there, you will be at base of Leggo and a few tricky (and exposed) moves from the other routes. To reach the base of most of the routes, you need to find the old trail heading right along the base of the Egg and then scramble up and left to the ledge below Variety/Groovin. Right before the belay ledge you have to climb a left trending 4th class cracky thing that leads to a small pine tree - some folks may appreciate a rope going up/down this.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Mar 19, 2013
the egg combined with the dragon arch make one of the better crags in the canyon.
Aug 5, 2014
Ruckman guides suggest a trail @ 0.35 mi. This trail sucks but it gets you there and starts just up-canyon from the 40 MPH sign. Don't do it.

Alternate approach begins just next to a large electrical box thing at ~0.3 mi and starts with some wooden-terraced steps. Hang a right just past the next electrical box thing/pole. Follow the awesome trail from here up and trending eastward where possible to reach the switchbacks leading to the final 4th class for the left side of the Egg.
By Leroy Fielding
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 9, 2015
Kudos to all the hard work on the trail. Much easier approach now from the park'n'ride than the old thrash up the gully. Many thanks!

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