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The Egg

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coffee and Cigarettes S 
Egg Arete S 
Egg Face S 
Egghead S 
Green Eggs and Ham S 
Junglework TR 
Shell Shock S 
Sign Language S 
Sunnyside Up S 
This is your Brain on Drugs S 

The Egg Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.88573, -122.62965 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,359
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 19, 2002  with updates from Justin Driemeyer
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: View from the trail when you first get to the beac...


It does look like and egg. 5.10 - 5.12 Sport routes on two sides, and some easier (5.7 - 5.9?) top ropeable slab climbs on the back (North?) side. It's an egg, it sits right on the beach so when there's sun, you'll be in the sun on one side of the rock. When there's fog, or rain, you're going to be exposed and cold.

Rock is solid serpentine and greywacke that's fairly easy on the fingers.

Currently, I believe this is part of the state parks system, so there aren't any access issues, other than that the park closes at sunset.

If you're going to climb the egg, and up for a challenge, you should try egghead, which is a "5.11b" that could easliy go for 5.12a other places in the area.

The climbs on the beta photo below are as follows:

1) Egghead (5.11b)
2) Jungle Work (5.12a t.r.)
3) This is your Brain on Drugs (5.12c)
4) Sign Language (5.10c)

Getting There 

There are two recommended ways to get to the egg:

The first is pretty burny on the knees and feet.Time: 10 - 15 minutes down, 15 - 20 up.From the main parking lot, get back in your car, and drive back down the coast about 1/2 a mile to a pullout. You can spot the egg from the road at this pullout. The pullout is located about halfway between the main parking lot and the Steep Ravine cabins entrance. It's also the only prominent pullout that doesn't have a no parking sign on it. From a trail that starts on the right side of the pullout head down towards the beach. Once you reach the beach, head left until you reach the egg. See the photos of the egg and the view from the parking lot.

The second approach will take a little longer, but if you're injured, tired or just plain lazy this is the route for you.Time: Unknown.Park at the gate for the Steep Ravine Cabins, and head down the paved trail. Once you get to the main campground area, head right along the coast about 100 yards until you get to the egg.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.5 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Egg

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Egg:
Green Eggs and Ham   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Coffee and Cigarettes   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Sign Language   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Sunnyside Up   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Egghead   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Sport, 60'   
Junglework   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Shell Shock   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   
This is your Brain on Drugs   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Egg

Featured Route For The Egg
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the 4th bolt. Copyright 2002 Melissa Moor...

Sign Language 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : The Egg
Find this route on the far right side of the north face of the rock. It can be tide dependant for the belay stance, though standing on the prominent rock behind the climb will help in all but the highest of tides. An interesting balancy route with great ocean views. Near the top avoid the temptation of heading way right, as the rock there is quite loose. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of The Egg Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice view of The Egg with cabins in background.
BETA PHOTO: A nice view of The Egg with cabins in background.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the turnout / parking lot of the egg. Ph...
BETA PHOTO: View from the turnout / parking lot of the egg. Ph...

Comments on The Egg Add Comment
Show which comments
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 13, 2005
Definitely wouldn't advise going from Main Rock directly to the Egg. The ridgeline is crumbly with nasty falls, and the even the beach approach forces you to scale crumbly rocks with backpacks on. Somebody (He Man?) told us it was the best way. No way! Go through the campgrounds or the other approach and save your nervous energy for the climbs!
By CrisS
Jan 16, 2014
Here's the GPS to plug into google: 37.885731,-122.629652
By Max McKinnon
From: San Jose, CA
Sep 13, 2015
Recommend taking the twice as long paved trail. I went directly down and when I grabbed a boulder for support, a HUGE 100lb+ piece came rolling off, and despite being loaded with gear, I barely avoided losing a toe. I came away with just scratches on my shin and hands from getting out of the way in the rough terrain. It would probably be fine without gear, but with gear, it was too treacherous.

Fun little climbing area. Recommend stick clipping the first bolt.
By Eric MC
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 4, 2016
Paved approach is mellow and easy, recommended.

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