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Brown's Ridge (aka "Whiteface")
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Edge, The T 
Polish the Monkey (mid-cliff START)  T 
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Somebody's Got to Do It T 

The Edge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 265'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: George Hurley/Jim Nupp and Jonathan Garlough/David Giampietro
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 217
Submitted By: jnupp on May 9, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: S Matz follows P2

Description 

Start far left of the cliff,behind twin maple trees in a triangular crack system. Gear here to get into larger crack to the left and follow to the end. Getting off the slab here until getting back on at the 2nd bolt keeps grade at 5.7. Variation: Stay on the slab at the end of this crack and clip 1st bolt-5.10
There are 4 bolts on this pitch, which ends at 2 ring bolt anchor (approximately 85')
2nd pitch goes up and left past 6 bolts to another 2 ring bolt anchor(approximately 120') 5.5
3rd pitch goes directly above anchor past 5 bolts to a tree anchor( approximately 60') 5.6

Location 

Route is far left of the cliff.
Can do 3 raps with a 70m rope or walk off down trail [ NOTE: The original submitter had "60m rope" but since it's been confirmed a 60m does NOT reach on the P2 rap I've changed the text for safety reasons. see also COMMENT by "SES" RHall Admin, June 2017.]

Protection 

Combination gear and quick draws
2 ring bolt anchors and cordelette anchor at a tree


Photos of The Edge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: RW just above the P1 5.7/5.8- crux ( if done witho...
BETA PHOTO: RW just above the P1 5.7/5.8- crux ( if done witho...
Rock Climbing Photo: RW on P3 of The Edge
BETA PHOTO: RW on P3 of The Edge
Rock Climbing Photo: "Ancient Artifact" on now-dead pine tree...
BETA PHOTO: "Ancient Artifact" on now-dead pine tree...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from P2 Belay
View from P2 Belay
Rock Climbing Photo: RH on the beautiful P2
BETA PHOTO: RH on the beautiful P2
Rock Climbing Photo: RW about to start: Note the brush-job, THANKS !
BETA PHOTO: RW about to start: Note the brush-job, THANKS !
Rock Climbing Photo: Start at double maple tree (not seen in picture) a...
BETA PHOTO: Start at double maple tree (not seen in picture) a...

Comments on The Edge Add Comment
Show which comments
By SES
May 9, 2017

A really fun route. The second pitch is too long to rappel with a single 60 meter rope, a 70 will make it, otherwise bring a tag line. Also tape is nice for the first pitch, the rock is somewhat sharp.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Jun 26, 2017
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

VERY nice route, nice mix of P1's non-slab-climbing START and the top of P1, as well as P2 & P3's clean, rough slab.

With my old knees somewhat limiting movements, I though the move left from one crack system to the 2nd crack about 35 ft up on P1 was the crux, "sans 5.10". If 5.10 slab moves aren't your thing, but at the same time you don't want to scramble up the dirt footsteps to bolt#2, I though the 5.10 went fine at about "A-0 / 5.8+ to 5.9-" using the "silver handhold".

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