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The Edge 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Tobin Sorensen, 1975
Page Views: 5,945
Submitted By: Bruce Diffenbaugh on Feb 11, 2008

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On Edge.


This route ascends the left edge/arete of the Open Book dihedral to the alcove below the true horn on desperate palming and smearing moves with two 40+ foot runout sections. The possibility of a fall off the edge of the dihedral is real thing. The climbing past there does not improve much! The run-out from the belay to the alcove is long and exposed. Everyone that has done this climb has a story to tell after. It gets my vote for the most balls-Z route ether side of the valley.

The Turbo Flange variation takes a direct start past a bolt to join the Edge from below. Truly a dynamic line!


Left of the Open Book.



Photos of The Edge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Connell Ford following the first pitch. Amazing!
Connell Ford following the first pitch. Amazing!
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on the Edge. 6-26-10
Unknown climber on the Edge. 6-26-10
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on the Edge. 6-26-10
Unknown climber on the Edge. 6-26-10

Comments on The Edge Add Comment
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By John Long
Jul 21, 2011

There's no reason to do the old Edge. It was done before sticky boots and avoids the entire lower part of the true edge. The Turbo Flange takes the whole enchilada from the ground and should become standard as opposed to traversing in from another route. A little 5.11- down low but once you get past the first run out - to where the Flange connects with Tobin's original edge route, the climbing in never above low 5.10 but there's almost no protection. Don't rip, amigos.

By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

^^^The moves at the first bolt on the arete on the original line are hard 5.10 as is the climbing directly off the belay on the second pitch. I agree that the runouts on p1 are never harder than low 5.10, but many of the moves are pretty insecure. The climbing off the belay on p2 is hard, runout, and insecure.
By Crimper E6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
May 25, 2015

E66a in real grades ;)

Have to disagree with J.Long on this one. The bottom arete is just average blocky granite and doesnt feel to add much (quite typical of the sea cliffs of SW England/Lundy). The purity of line starts above this darker band. Great route finding by Tobin to find the subtle weakness of edges to gain the arete. The moves above are a gripping and sustained 5c/6a. The rock was a bit crumbly as its obviously not done much.

All in all, Great route, but not quite a "masters edge"
By Jordan Cannon
From: Bishop, CA
May 23, 2016

Second pitch is definitely harder, but not bad after you gain some confidence on the first pitch. The rock quality is not very good between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, but once you get to the edge it improves.

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