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The Edge of Chaos 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 1,791
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Josh Graham nearing the top on a beautiful fall af...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


A really enjoyable jug haul with a remarkably airy lower-off or rappel. The Edge of Chaos has some exciting, hard moves interspersed with good rests.

Get past the initial two bolts by classic AF pocket pulling over the starting overhang. The start is a bit tricky because the feet are thin, and after the first obvious ones, the correct pockets/jugs are a bit hard to find.

Continue up and right on less-than-vertical terrain to the third bolt, and then things get steeper. There are some fun liebacking moves, and as you start back left again, a confidence-building, off-balance, double sidepull move that is pretty cool. The left-trending top bit is pretty fun because your mind is telling you that you really don't want to go that way and follow the bolt's just not natural to dangle your corpus over a bunch of air.

Cleaning the route while lowering or rappelling would be challenging, to say the least. Do yourself a favor and run up it on toprope to clean it.


The first bolt is above an overhang on the west side of White Wave, to the right of a large, obvious pocket. The second and third bolts are up and right from the first one.


10 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos of The Edge of Chaos Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: White Wave Wall 1 Naked Nebula 5.12a 2 Naked Knuck...
BETA PHOTO: White Wave Wall 1 Naked Nebula 5.12a 2 Naked Knuck...
Rock Climbing Photo: The holds are big but it's steep.
The holds are big but it's steep.
Rock Climbing Photo: A couple moves into the steep start.
A couple moves into the steep start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another look at the steep portion. Looks like the ...
Another look at the steep portion. Looks like the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy on the vertical (well less overhanging) porti...
Andy on the vertical (well less overhanging) porti...

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By Bad Sock Puppet
May 31, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

What an awesome route! This one starts out with a funky but easy start and then moves through wonderfully moderate climbing for 50 feet. The crux it seems is right at the point where you begin your left traverse toward the chains at the small roof. Serious exposure, awesome view, and unique long traverse along the edge of the roof. Don't try cleaning on rappel or even while being lowered is still hard; clean on TR. This one is probably closer to an .11c now since lots of holds have broken, and it feels harder than other .11b's on that side of the canyon. Also I'm pretty sure it's 11 bolts + chains.
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Oct 7, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

What I loved about this route is how you get your feet up and commit to a move to be rewarded by good pockets and edges. 10 bolts and chains for sure. Climbed it twice in a row and it felt 5.11b both times. A bit tricky following the wandering bolt line. Way fun none the less! Love this White Wave formation.
By Jeff Jones
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I thought the exposure was intense on Winds of Fire. WOW! I am not going to lie...I was scared and did not want to traverse to the left at the top. But you have to. I took forever clipping the last two bolts as I was hanging out on one of the many good size and shape holds trying to recover something in my right arm to finish the climb. Thanks to the encouragement of my belayer, I was able to send this bad boy.
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great climb but I dont have fond memories of it. Upon being lowered I accidentally kicked off some rocks on the scooped out section while cleaning it. The rock fall hit my belayer (Jeff Jones) in the face - he was wearing a helmet. Almost took him out for good. Thats why the rocks are all red at the base of the cliff. Dont be stupid and not wear a helmet on White Wave, the wall is ever changing with rocks coming off in one way or another.
By jeff p
From: Golden
Mar 13, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Amazing climb on a beautiful rock feature. Starts just under a rock bulge. I could reach a draw up to the first bolt from my tip toes. First couple move off ground are a little bouldery but not bad. The route trends right for the first 4 or 5 bolt then up and then left. I used extended draws for bolts 4 and 5, which I think really helped the rope drag once you start traversing left. The route is pretty straight forward until the traverse which is where the exposure factor kicks in. All the jugs and feet are there if you can keep your heart rate in check and focus.. I onsited and then followed back on TR to clean. Wouldn't even attempt to clean from rappel or lowering. Personally, I thought it was soft for 11b/c, I would call it 11a. However, considering the exposure factor a b/c is understandable.

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