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Mount Bona and Mount Churchill
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East Slope/Ridge, The 

The East Slope/Ridge 

   
Type:  Alpine, 6500', Grade III
Original: Steep Snow [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring/Summer
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: Taylor-B. on Oct 27, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Mt. Bona from 14,000ft.

Description 

Fly into the Klutlan Glacier at about 10,000ft. Take care in this area, for there have been a lot of crevasse falls and accidents. Aside from the dangers, these two peaks are excellent skiing objectives and the terrain allows you to put in as many camps as needed or none.
From 10,000ft ascend up to the left of a very broken rib of glacier with some seracs, to about 12,500ft. To the climbers left side of the rib can be a wind loaded ramp that provides the best snow bridges across the crevasses. 12,500ft is a good spot to make a camp.

Above 12,500ft ascend up a glaciated concave bowl, this area is still heavily crevassed and poses some avalanche danger. At 14,000ft the large caldera-plateau is reached.

Once the rim of the caldera is reached Mount Churchill is the closest and Mt. Bona is still two miles away.

Traverse a flat mile to the base of the South East Ridge of Mount Churchill. The ridge is a very aesthetic knife edge ridge to the summit.

Mount Bona requires a two mile traverse across the plateau. Once at the base, ascend up the broad slope at a 30-40 degree angle.

Protection 

Expedition Kit, a ice screw, and pickets.


Photos of The East Slope/Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the wind loaded shot from 10,000ft t...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the wind loaded shot from 10,000ft t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Churchill from 14,000ft. The route ascends t...
BETA PHOTO: Mount Churchill from 14,000ft. The route ascends t...
Rock Climbing Photo: The knife ridge of Mount Churchill with Mount Bona...
The knife ridge of Mount Churchill with Mount Bona...

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