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East Face Mosey, The T 

The East Face Mosey 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: spring/fall
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: Stefan Griebel on Apr 12, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Marta Reece climbing what seemed like the crux of ...

Description 

Approaching from Aguirre Springs to the Spire / Low Horn 6 gully, go right on a ledge system just before the saddle proper.

P1 - Towards the end of the ledge, wherever it looks easiest, head up onto the rock and start traversing right towards a big 4th-class looking gash/chimney/crack system. There are some loose blocks around your feet here, but the handholds are plentiful and the climbing easy. Go up the gash for a few moves, then work up and right on a beautiful face towards the arete, or maybe head straight up the face. Continue up to wherever you can find to build an anchor. If rope drag isn't too bad, you could probably link with P2.

P2 - Continue up to a little roof system with a slab on the left. Do the crux moves (5.7) up the slab, praying the lichen isn't greasy and wet, to easier ground, then wander up to the summit picking the easiest line, with maybe another move of 5.7.

To descend, rap the S. Face with a single 60m rope, or downclimb NW to Low Horn #5.

Location 

This is on the East Face of the southernmost Low Horn, #6. Best approach is from pine tree trail to the drainage that goes up between the Spire/Spike and Low Horn #6. Allow 1.5 hours to approach.

Protection 

Maybe a couple cams (up to hand-sized) and a few medium nuts.

As always in the Organs, bring new slings and quicklinks or leaver-biners to replace whatever aging, sun-beat tat you find for anchors and raps.


Photos of The East Face Mosey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc Tarnosky leading P3. Note: the rope going alo...
BETA PHOTO: Marc Tarnosky leading P3. Note: the rope going alo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc Tarnosky belaying in a crack, after running t...
BETA PHOTO: Marc Tarnosky belaying in a crack, after running t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marta Reece following P1.
BETA PHOTO: Marta Reece following P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc Tarnosky leading P1. (Note: this route is mor...
BETA PHOTO: Marc Tarnosky leading P1. (Note: this route is mor...
Rock Climbing Photo: East Face of Low Horn #6. The Spike visible left o...
BETA PHOTO: East Face of Low Horn #6. The Spike visible left o...

Comments on The East Face Mosey Add Comment
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By Drew Chojnowski
From: Las Cruces, NM
May 21, 2017

Due to the fun P1, relatively easy approach from Aguirre Springs, and top-out on a summit, this is a great route. We did the climb roped up (unlike Stefan, if not mistaken), and found that our version entailed quite a bit more than 150 ft:

P1: ~170 ft. Sustained 5.7, mostly straight up then traversing right to a ledge with a small tree and other obvious vegetation. Climb up the easy gash in the roof overhead. Build a trad anchor once on safe ground on the east ridge (beware loose rock!).

P2: ~170 ft. Walk west (3rd-4th class) along the ridge and build a trad anchor in one of the wide cracks descending from the great roof overhead. We were roped up for this, but probably didn't need to be.

P3: ~120ft. Climb due west up to the roof and then left (south) along it, where protection can be found (unlike a more direct slab option). Eventually one reaches a weakness in the roof, climbing up some lichen-covered flake-like features. Build an anchor around a medium tree shortly after the exciting lichen part.

P4: ~100 ft. Scramble to the summit.

Descent to the south or east was not straightforward, and remains to be worked out. We searched for viable options for rapping off the south face, and found nothing. It does not seem like a single-rope rap would reach the ground. We probably could have descended with relative ease to the north, but we didn't want to since we had left packs in the Spire/Low Horn 6 gully. We got down via a lot of scrambling/down-climbing to the NE at first and then traversing around to the SE side, passing the route we climbed. A sketchy (but thankfully not very steep) double-rope rap going east from a small tree landed us at the top of P1. From there, a clean rappel from solid tree-like bushes landed us at the start of the route exactly. A bolted anchor south of the summit would be useful.
By Stefan Griebel
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 26, 2017

Ah, yes Drew is right - I was solo and clearly botched the pitches and descent info. Everything seems so much shorter when there are no rope dynamics and gear to deal with! Also, I downclimbed off to the North to keep traversing, so the descent was my best guess. From the top, it appeared you could rap the South Face back into the ravine. Sorry about the poor write-up, but glad it at least got someone else up there to check it out.

So, please use Drew's description and beta! And I agree 100% on the exciting lichen features. Climb on!

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