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The Bastille - W Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Faith T 
Breakfast in Bed T 
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 
Chance of Rain T,TR 
Cream T 
Early Riser, The T 
Hair City T 
Implied Consent T,TR 
Let Them Eat Cake T 
Neon Lights T 
New Chautauqua T 
Out to Lunge T 
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 
Rain T 
Serengeti Spaghetti T 
Stem Gem T 
Sunset Boulevard S 
Sunshine Daydream T 
Voodoo T 
West Arete T 
West Buttress T 
West Face T 
West Side aka West Chimney T 
Your Mother S 

The Early Riser 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: J. Erickson, M. Sharp, 1981
Season: Faces West
Page Views: 44
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 30, 2015

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2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>

Location and Description 

To find this climb, hike up the hill from the start of Blind Faith. In the large recessed area just uphill and before coming below the ledge as for Out To Lunge and Breakfast In Bed, there are a few corners. The left of these is a hanging dihedral, starting about 20' above the ground and going for a few body lengths. This is guarded from below by an overhang of fractured rock. This is The Early Riser. It is a fairly short climb with some interesting and surprisingly good moves, yet overwhelmed by a preponderance of "blah" and somewhat runout concern. If it were all as clean as the crux or that section were longer, I'd have a lot more to say about this route. As is, however, it is a fun and surprising diversion only for the Eldo enthusiasts. For the rest of the crowd, there are better options.

Climb up and left into the start on fractured rock. This might be 5.7-5.8 but is not protect-able. Cut back slightly right to pull in to the obvious part of the climb just below the hanging, left-facing corner. Good gear is available here, and thankfully so. Place a few good pieces and pull the crux getting up into the dihedral. This is at first much harder than you might expect for the grade and might stay that way for people below perhaps 5'6". For those of us a little taller, have faith and go for it, it will all work out if you keep moving up.

Finish up the short corner, and then climb up and right onto a ledge with a substantial pine. Belay there, watching and re-directing the rope with some pro so as not to have it knocking down loose scree from the ledge if the second falls.


As standard light rack: cams from small to hand-size and a few nuts if needed. Some longer slings are advised, as well as a cordalette for the tree-belay.

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