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The Early Bird Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Birds S 
Buzzards over Lexington S 
Cockadoodle Don't S 
Cockadoodle Doo S 
Eagle Tenders S 
Eagle's Nest S 
Early Bird Arete S 
Edge of Glory, The S 
Falcon and Gulo S 
Fast Times at Wolverine High S 
Here Comes The Turkey S 
Holes In The Universe S 
King Cobble S 
Pullet Interrupted S 
Raven Ridge S 
Return of the Drillslingers S 
Rib Cage S 
Silt in the Saddle Stitching S 
Son of Cobble S 
Super Chicken S 
Tweetie the Condor S 
Yankee Doodle Arch S 
Yankee Magpie S 
Yankee Strikes Again, The S 

The Early Bird Crag Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.55575, -111.68189 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,638
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: CHopwood on Jul 8, 2012  with updates from Brian in SLC


53° | 31°

47° | 28°

50° | 29°

46° | 25°

45° | 26°
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This East facing crag contains 30 routes ranging from 5.1- 5.12. It receives sun all morning and doesn't see a lot of traffic as it is quite hot most of the time. The crag does contain a few multi-pitch routes with The Eagle's Nest 5.10c (5p) being the proudest line on the wall.

Getting There 

Park near the bridge and cross the creek to the North. Walk East along the base of the wall until you reach the sunny east face of the crag. Eagle's Nest and Eagle's Tenders will be the first routes you pass.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Early Bird Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Early Bird Crag:
Here Comes The Turkey   5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Rib Cage   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 90'   
Yankee Magpie   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 35'   
Early Bird Arete   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 70'   
Return of the Drillslingers   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Silt in the Saddle Stitching   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 48'   
Eagle Tenders   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   
Yankee Doodle Arch   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   
King Cobble   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   
Eagle's Nest   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 5 pitches, 250'   
The Edge of Glory   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Falcon and Gulo   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Son of Cobble   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Early Bird Crag

Featured Route For The Early Bird Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: The base of King Cobble

King Cobble 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Utah : Maple Canyon : ... : The Early Bird Crag
A classic for sure. No moves are all that difficult by themselves but it is a long one, don't get pumped. Climb this route and stand on the king of all cobbles!This route is bolted very well, thanks Darren! Goes straight up and uses a full 60m....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of The Early Bird Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Early Bird Crag and Maple Corridor following t...
BETA PHOTO: The Early Bird Crag and Maple Corridor following t...

Comments on The Early Bird Crag Add Comment
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By Jesse James
From: Knoxville, TN
Jun 10, 2013
Lured by the copious amount of stars in the new guidebook, we were un-impressed with the crag overall. Lots of loose stuff, so belayers should definitely wear a helmet. This is probably not the best place for beginners fresh out of the gym, despite the many easier climbs here.
By James Taylor
Jul 6, 2013
Jesse James is right regarding the fact that there seemed to be a lot of loose rock on the crag. However I disagree that it is a horrible place for those transitioning from the gym. In fact I would say the band of 5.1's next to each other are good routes for teaching beginners how to lead and also set / clean top rope anchors on sport routes. It isn't busy and lots of space on the ledge for both a trainer and student.

NOTE: Lots of routes at this crag are not listed in Mountain Project so don't try to count the bolts left to right based on the listing here.
By Gavin W
May 6, 2015
If you're looking for this area, don't make the mistake my party did and head up the first canyon you encounter after crossing the creek that has bolts. That would be Maple Corridor. Keep heading parallel to the road until you hit the next crag.
By Victoria C
From: Folsom, CA
Jul 7, 2016
Some routes were really crumbly. Two egg-sized cobbles broke off when I was on "Silt in the Saddle Stitching". I'd suggest to make sure the cobbles are well-attached to the wall before weighing on them, especially the smaller ones.

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