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Weavers Needle
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The Dutchman's Gold 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Bill Forrest, Gary Garbert, 1965
Season: Spring
Page Views: 547
Submitted By: sean peters on Jan 15, 2015

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A wild way to the summit of the Needle. If you have done El Grungo this will feel more difficult and probably dangerous.

Pitch one begins by stepping off a boulder and climbs unprotected for a bit until reaching better rock and a crack. Moving out of the crack is tricky (sort of felt more like a quick 5.10 move) to some loose rock above. Do a scary traverse out right over some horrible rock to a nice secure feeling ledge. A fairly long pitch. We belayed here.

Pitch two continues up a fairly good crack and traverses out left towards a sugar bush/tree and continues up better and easier rock to a nice belay ledge. You can see this shrub from the base/start.

Pitch three has a frightening looking leaning flake you get to climb on/over to gain access to a nice 5.8 face above. The start of this pitch and the moves above it felt like there might be some series consequences if you fall. The pitch continues upwards and ends under/on a large sugar bush/tree. This tree can be seen from Fremont Saddle or from almost any vantage point when looking at the east face.

Pitch four wanders up some 5.6 slab with loose rock and traverses a bit right to a rotten looking chimney.

Pitch five climbs the chimney, it's loose but fairly secure feeling. Once out of the chimney continue over some short but easy boulder/faces and up to the summit.

Location 

Use the Bluff Springs Trail and Terrapin Trail and then your own trail to reach the base.

The route is located on the imposing east face of the Needle. It can be located by the boulder you step off to begin pitch one. Also look for the large sugar bush/tree on the approach and the large roof that is just north of the route.

Standard descent for the Needle. Either down climb or rappel back from the notch/chockstone to your packs.

Protection 

We brought gear up to #5 cams. We found only one of the three pitons that are noted in Phoenix Rock. You can rappel back to the ground from the second belay with two ropes. Pitch one has on anchor bolt, pitch two has two anchor bolts.


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