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Yosemite Arete 

The Dream of Life  

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Nadya Vorotnikova
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: Nadya Vorotnikova on Jun 28, 2016  with updates from Alec Woolley

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About half way up!

Description 

If crimpy, technical highballs are your jam, I would highly recommend this climb.

Start on an undercling on the right side of the small roof and make a move to a left hand crimp. Above it, snag the slopey crimp rail and work your way up and left on delicate feet to two very positive crimps. Straight up to the top from there is very thin and requires delicate footwork and balance.

The lower half of the climb has some obvious flakey holds that should be avoided.

!!! IMPORTANT !!!

Please dismantle the log bridge/dam that is used as a landing for this climb after you are done working on it each time. It causes lots of water to flow around the boulder and increases the erosion/flooding on both sides. The water normally flows directly under the boulder and rarely around the sides. Please do this so we can preserve good relations with the park and abide by LNT principles. Thank you!

Location 

Right side of the back wall on the Yosemite Boulder, above the stream bed.

Protection 

Having logs over the stream helps diffuse shock and will keep your pads from getting soaked. Having multiple pads and spotters is ideal in case you dry fire off the top.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 7, 2017
By Graham O.
Jun 28, 2016

I made a mistake with the height. 23' is the height up to the ledge. The next section is another ten feet. Also, you need two quick draws with you.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jun 28, 2016

Is there an anchor for this line? Bolted or gear? If gear, any insight on what size gear is needed to build one?

I have always been intrigued by this line...
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Jun 28, 2016

Christian,

I do remember seeing a bolt way on top of the bolder, like if you could climb Yosemite Arete, but continue climbing directly way up the arete instead of breaking left to the flake, that's where the bolt is, at the very top of the boulder at the end of the arete (if I remember correctly). I do believe I saw another bolt up there, but I think it was to the right of the yosemite arete. I know the crack that starts right of Yosemite Arete and wraps around is supposed to be like a 5.12...

I think a good bet would be to wait for winter ice so the water freezes and then try climbing this... You'll need cold conditions anyways... those crimps look small and slopey. If anyone could get it I bet you could Christian, since you've said technical crimping/slab is your style (Voodoo Child, Midnight In A Perfect World).
By Graham O.
Jul 5, 2016

There is no anchor, but there are two bolts that might rip if you were to fall on them. The upper v3 is super sketchy, definately optional. If you must do it, you might even want to untie on the ledge first. The arête thing you mentioned I'm pretty sure is a trad project potentially going at 5.13a and will probably get an X rating. Anyway, the upper section is not really advised.
By Miles Galloway
From: Raymond, nh
Jan 1, 2017

We climbed the line that is directly above the stream bed on the Yosemite boulder. The two bolts are on the slab to the left of this line, we couldn't use them. It felt v8 to me, but the mental battle was much harder than that. Plenty of pads and spotters.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jan 1, 2017

Something needs to get changed here because you basically have the original description of what is essentially a direct line to 'Keep It Subtle' mixed with a photo from Miles that is actually the line to the right of this. So, is this the name and grade for the direct finish to 'Keep It Subtle' or is it for the line that Miles is on in the photo?

If it's for the latter, then the description needs to be altered or a new route should be created and added to this section. It's worthy of a top notch description from Nadya and company. And this one can be separately listed as an undone project.

If the line over the stream has in fact been done, that's awesome. Nice work Nadya! It's definitely one of the most aesthetic lines in Pway and I'm impressed. A line and name after my own heart. :)
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Jan 2, 2017

Christian, The line Nadya put up is the one that Miles is on in the photo (formerly the stream project). It's sick, but also extremely sharp.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Jan 2, 2017

Incredible to see this boulder problem climbed twice in one day. This is the line directly over the stream. It is extremely high and has probably never been bouldered before. Here is the footage I got of the two sends that day.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Jan 3, 2017

Absolutely stunning performances, this line is special and insanely proud, congratulations to you two!

Maybe this page should be removed or altered and Nadya or Miles can re-add the climb and give it a better description?
By Nadya Vorotnikova
From: Nashua, NH
Jan 3, 2017

Thanks guys! I'm a little hesitant to add the route here because I'm not sure if it was an FA. I've never had an FA, and it seems suspect that such a neat technical line wasn't done at Boulder Natural. Grading is also super tricky for me. Haha, Christian, I thought you'd appreciate the name. I told you I'd probably put too much thought into it, I could discuss the topic for hours.
By Andrew Orde
Jan 6, 2017

Great work Nadya and Miles! Loved seeing the video, perfect name.

Nadya I think you should repost this with your own description. Awesome job!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jan 7, 2017

I agree with Andrew.
By Nadya Vorotnikova
From: Nashua, NH
Jan 7, 2017

Working on it, guys!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 7, 2017

Nadya, I'll reassign this over to you so you can edit as you need (Hope you don't mind, Graham) Don't forget guys, you can use the 'improve this page' button.
By Graham O.
Jan 7, 2017

That is 100% fine. Awesome work you guys!
By Alec Woolley
From: Nottingham, NH
May 7, 2017

To anyone trying this climb:

Please dismantle the log bridge/dam that is used as a landing for this after you are done working on it each time. It is causing a lot of water to flow around the boulder and increasing the erosion/flooding on both sides. The water normally flows directly under the boulder and only to the sides rarely.

That being said, it isn't something one would think of so its understandable why the landing would be left. It definitely is causing damage and ethically for good relations with the park, should be taken down.

Can't wait to try out the climb though, looks great!
By Nadya Vorotnikova
From: Nashua, NH
May 7, 2017

Thank you for bringing this to our attention, Alec! Definitely don't want to create more erosion. Will pass the message on to anyone working the climb and will tear down the log bridge if I see if up without anyone working the climb.

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