The Drain Pipe
||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Larry Harrell & Charlie Raymond, March 1967 FFA: John Long, Richard Harrison & Rick Accomazzo, 1973|
|Season: ||Spring - Fall|
|Page Views: ||1,146|
|Submitted By: ||Chris Owen on Mar 4, 2006|
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Scrambling leads to a tree belay at the top of P1 of Gates of Delirium
P1 Traverse right to ease to a bolt clip then very thin moves (exposed crux) to gain the bottom of the crack (nut/cam). The crack provides frantic trickiness of a different nature, past pitons to a ledge below the real Drain Pipe pitch.
P2 Laybacking and jamming with good pro, and in a wonderful position leads to a fitting finale: hand traverse right under Piasano Pinnacle, what a great pitch!
1 Bolt, 2 pitons, nuts, cams.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Feb 6, 2010
I gave it *** because I really enjoyed the second pitch. Pitch one was average.
Apr 23, 2016
Gnar right off the deck. I couldn't pull it, aided on a micro cam. Looking at the thin crack I ventured right into what looked like better territory to gain the base of the wide crack, ie skipped the pitons. The wide crack was fun in an old school way, had just enough gear with a C4 #4 and #5 plus 2 #3's for the wide section. Traversed left at the end, spanned the gap to gain bolts on top of a block (Clockwork Orange 10d) to rap back down to ground and our packs.