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Sunshine Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bukatude T 
Buttress Chimney T 
Drain Pipe, The T 
First Pitch T 
Gates of Delirium T 
Golden Oldies T 
Hesitation T 
Hesitation Direct T 
Iron Cross T 
Ishi T 
Last of the Mohicans T 
Moondance T 
New Generation T 
Nirvana T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Race With The Devil T 
Red Rain T 
Sidewinder T 
Stretch, The T 
Sundance T 
Sundance Arete T 
Sundike T 
Valhalla T 
Voodoo Child T 

The Drain Pipe 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Larry Harrell & Charlie Raymond, March 1967 FFA: John Long, Richard Harrison & Rick Accomazzo, 1973
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 1,229
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Mar 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Scrambling leads to a tree belay at the top of P1 of Gates of Delirium.

P1 Traverse right to ease to a bolt clip then very thin moves (exposed crux) to gain the bottom of the crack (nut/cam). The crack provides frantic trickiness of a different nature, past pitons to a ledge below the real Drain Pipe pitch.

P2 Laybacking and jamming with good pro, and in a wonderful position leads to a fitting finale: hand traverse right under Piasano Pinnacle, what a great pitch!


Same descent as Valhalla etc.


1 Bolt, 2 pitons, nuts, cams.

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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Feb 6, 2010

I gave it *** because I really enjoyed the second pitch. Pitch one was average.
By Tradiban
Apr 23, 2016

Gnar right off the deck. I couldn't pull it, aided on a micro cam. Looking at the thin crack I ventured right into what looked like better territory to gain the base of the wide crack, ie skipped the pitons. The wide crack was fun in an old school way, had just enough gear with a C4 #4 and #5 plus 2 #3's for the wide section. Traversed left at the end, spanned the gap to gain bolts on top of a block (Clockwork Orange 10d) to rap back down to ground and our packs.

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