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The Dragons Spine  

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P1 Bill Coe, Ujahn Davisson 8/15/2009 - P2 7/14/10 Solo, Bill Coe
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,318
Submitted By: Billcoe on Sep 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: What that other picture of Mark and Shaun looks li...

Description 

The Dragons Spine goes for 2 pitches of unbelievably amazing and fun knob climbing.

P1) Follow the arete straight up near or on the spine. Wander back and forth passing the intermediate rap anchor (added later and shared with Gothic) on the left at the half way point. Follow the best knobs to a belay 56 meters up located @ 90 feet under and slightly to the right of the top of the pinnacle which ends at the 2 stainless Fixe Sport anchors on a tiny stance. P2, step up and right just enough so you don't land on your belayer and follow the 15 bolts up and tending slightly left past the sub pinnacles to the top of the main Dragons Spine Pinnacle.

From the pinnacle you should be able to rappel 3 different directions/routes to avoid any traffic with just your single 60m rope. No need to trail a 2nd line. The 3 rap versions are:
1st) Rap the route off the slings/rings around the top of the pinnacle.
2nd) At the top of the pinnacle step around left to the Grey Ghost Stainless Fixe Sport anchors located on the North side.
3rd) Thread the rings and head to the Gratitude anchors in the gully behind the pinnacle.

Location 

Center of the wall. See overview photo. Route is listed in Tim Olsens "Northwest Oregon Rock" guidebook.

Protection 

Bolts...lots and lots of bolts. Doing the route as it should be climbed, that is as doing the first pitch as a full 56 meters and not chickening out and heading to the rap anchors half way up so as to make it 3 pitches will require 24 draws and/or full length over the shoulder slings.

If you don't have 24 draws/runners, just step over at the half way point rap anchors and break it up into 2 pitches so that your buddy can drag your draws up to you. No one will be critical:-)


Photos of The Dragons Spine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dragons Spine overview of the upper part.
Dragons Spine overview of the upper part.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Canavan starting pitch one.
Mark Canavan starting pitch one.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Canavan(belaying) and Shaun Coe (following) o...
Mark Canavan(belaying) and Shaun Coe (following) o...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Dragons Head
The Dragons Head
Rock Climbing Photo: The top of The Dragons Spine Pinnacle
The top of The Dragons Spine Pinnacle
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Canavan (leading) and Shaun Coe on pitch 2 of...
Mark Canavan (leading) and Shaun Coe on pitch 2 of...

Comments on The Dragons Spine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Trevor Vichas
From: Strawberry, CA
Mar 1, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

intermediate rap anchor (added later and shared with Gothic) on the left at the half way point is missing one of the bolts, link and clip. lots of loose rock.
By Isaac
From: Portland
6 days ago

As with everything in this area, rating is very soft. I would say no harder than a 5.8... maybe as more holds break off it will grow into the grade. ;)

Regardless, a very fun climb with some great exposure near the top. We rapped off the bolted anchors to the north and had some difficulty with ropes getting stuck on the way down. Be careful when pulling the rope.

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