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82 Steep Wall
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The Doggfather 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Travis Peckham
Page Views: 4,306
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Aaron Fournier slaps the final rail on The Doggfat...

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org

Description 

This route is a true classic and is a must-do for any visiting climber capable of the grade. Begin with a long, pumpy, sequential 5.11+ face climbing section to a sloping rail where there is an awkward no-hands rest using your shoulder blade and smeared feet, use it well. Once you get uncomfortable in the no-hands "rest", best to move on to the crux which is a long V5 boulder problem through a bulge. There is a challenging clip right at the crux section. The final move involves a dyno off a small crimp to a big rail that must be mantled to clip the chains. You might catch some air if you blow it at the top but it's 100% fun and safe.

Location 

Follow the trail map for the Bolton area to the 82 crag and use the rope to climb up the chossy 5.5 intro crag to get to the base of the hard routes. The Doggfather is the 4th route from the left or two routes right of the spray-painted "82" sign.

Protection 

bolts


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By Seth Maciejowski
Jun 12, 2016

the nut on the 5th bolt is loose. it will fall off next time someone is there leaving you with a very heady moves out to the sidepull just before the shoulder scum. We forgot the wrench so if we don't get there first, bring one along and tighten that one down hard....
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Oct 2, 2016
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

The 5th bolt has been replaced with a glue-in.

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