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Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
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The Disputed 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: S. Peter Lewis & Mark Arsenault - 1979
Page Views: 1,185
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 31, 2009

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Begin at the P1 belay of Pete's Farewell and head straight up from the belay for the ledge about 10 feet above the spacious belay ledge with the obvious hand crack above. An awkward and intimidating couple of moves gains the crack (crux). Above, the crack lets up a little and becomes a little blocky and then widens into a small overhang. Pull through and continue through easier terrain to the fixed anchor.


Start: At the P1 belay of Pete's Farewell.
Descent: There are two bolts at the top of the route. Rappel into the chimney and either join with the 2nd rap anchor for Pete's Farewell or proceed to the ground (a rope stretcher on a 60m rope).
NOTE:DO NOT try to rappel the face of the Chimney Cliff, a 60m will end up being about 15' shy.


Gear to C4 #3 size, possibly a C4 #4-sized piece if you wish. Doubles in C4 size .75-1" could be helpful depending on your comfort level.
There are two bolts with rap rings attached via quick-links at the top.

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By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 1, 2009

Rappelling the route with a 70m rope will get to the ground with about 5 feet to spare on each end.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 16, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

The gear list is hysterical (and likely accurate). When my partner and I did the FRA (hard to claim the true FA, even back then---it was just so stinkin' obvious), all we had was a bunch of straight-sided Chouinard stoppers, a set of hexes, some 1-inch webbing, and (as I recall), a hammer. I may have been wearing a 2-inch swami belt (Google it if you're not old enough to know what that is). As an interesting aside, a few minutes after topping out, I fell off the top of the cliff un-roped. To hear the rest of the story, see my comments for the neighboring climb, The El. (It's got a very happy ending.)
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Aug 6, 2014

Great crack climbing! I would say old school 5.8! Definitely worth doing, along with Star Sailor to the left.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
May 4, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If it's busy at the first belay ledge for Petes you can climb this from the ground to the top and belay from above to avoid clogging up that ledge more. An additional way to minimize the cluster is to climb the wide crack on the right side of the Petes ledge, up to the stance before the crux, instead of climbing the face directly above the belay ledge. I recommend a #4 to protect that crack if you choose to do so. It's a little thrutchy. Fun route! Perfect jams up through the crux.

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