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Dirty Job, The 

The Dirty Job 

Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder, Alpine
Original:  Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Colin Rickert
Page Views: 1,597
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 16, 2010

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Colin Rickert about to fire the crux of "The ...

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Start by using a couple horrible pistol grips / pinches and some feet scummed under the roof then perform a very powerful deadpoint. Final moves must be campused. (hint - throw your feet really high to start - seriously). Rumor has it that some footholds have broken and upped the grade to V8/9 or something but I remember my feet being crap anyways so not sure if that changes the problem or not.


On the underside of the Guinness Boulder in the Main Parking Lot.



Photos of The Dirty Job Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Holding the swing and gunning for the lip
Holding the swing and gunning for the lip
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown Canadian climber on the crux of "The ...
Unknown Canadian climber on the crux of "The ...

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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jul 26, 2010

Supposedly with the "footholds" that have broken this problem is now a V9. It was probably a little undergraded at V7 when I first did it but I'm not sure if people think it's a new problem or not (I don't but then again I haven't done it lately). A strong local climber otherwise known as Dweezil suggested calling it "The Dirtier Job". If people think it should be renamed on account of it being definitely harder than V8, let me know...
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Nov 21, 2013

Lots of folks are using the new high toe-hook beta. This involves pinching the two pistol grips and then throwing the toes way up right and toe-hooking before moving back to the left side of the boulder with your hand. I am all for variations and even eliminates but I would say that you don't get the full value of the problem if you do it this way. Using the feet down low (which may have gotten worse) and throwing dynamically is really what the original problem is all about.

That said, I am happy to see people having fun out out there and trying new things. Also, there's no "wrong" way to climb anything - only thing that matters is that you are having fun!

: )
By eddysamson
Jun 7, 2014
rating: V6 7A

I just figured it out today with the toe hook beta. I have to disagree Colin, I think forcing the other way makes it in to a very gimmicky problem and its easy to cheat that move. I loved the toe hook way, I thought it made it in to a very fun problem.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jun 7, 2014

Up to you man - like I said there's no "wrong" way to climb anything. But throwing the toes up high and right to toe-hook the lip really is just a different problem, I don't believe my hands even wind up going that way anyways when I sent it. In terms of the "its too easy to cheat" comment, well there was definitely no cheating on the FA - Bill probably still has the video of it somewhere.

It's meant to be a power problem and the first move IS the move, the rest is a campus to the top.

However if you want to say the original line doesn't exist or somehow isn't worth it - well, I have to disagree with you there. Toe-hooking isn't something boulderers generally seek out if you know where I am going...
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jun 7, 2014

Here's a great video of a toe-hook problem near my neck of the woods. They took a V7+ problem and made it V5 if you're short enough to do what the woman does in the video. Looks all smooth but its also clear she's using the ground to throw her feet up - if that's what people are doing on the Dirty Job then definitely its NOT the same problem because its cheating. Besides, you'll never catch me trying that stuff on a boulder problem so I am probably never going to do that problem that way. Double toe-hooks are just not my thing. Call me old fashioned...

By eddysamson
Jun 19, 2014
rating: V6 7A

See that's the thing about climbing outside, you can't force a move. If someone can figure it out a different way but you're still using the same holds for the most part, its just new beta and you have to accept that someone figured something else out and it may (or may not) affect the grade. It doesn't matter if your hands don't go near the toe hook spot. Its kind of like Boomerang which has 2 clear ways to do it and when going one way you won't touch the main holds you go for the other way, but its still the same problem and grade. Having said that, the people I've shown the toe hook beta to think its an awesome, fun climb and seem completely unexcited about trying it your way.

I should also mention the climb uses all the same holds with the toe hook, you don't hand foot match like in that clip you posted, just go to the left hand jug.
By Daniel Olmschenk
Jul 4, 2014

I'm not sure I'm psyched on starting with my feet on top of the boulder, but as long as people are staying psyched they should do it. That being said, I think there are some rules that we apply to bouldering that can "force a move". Sit starts are arguably forced moves, eh? Eliminates also exist in bouldering, which may make something contrived, but it's common in many places around the country.

How do folks get their feet up there? Are they walking up the boulder on the right? Couldn't the FAst just have easily called that boulder "off"? If someone can do standing splits to get their foot on top of the boulder, I'd give them V9 for it, at least.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Aug 31, 2014

Original problem felt ridiculously hard, toehook problem is fun but overgraded at v5, original way is the true line.
By Tyler Kempney
From: Boulder, CO
May 30, 2015
rating: V5-6 6C+

I have respect for the original line and the person who got the first accent! Man those pinches are hard!
But the toe hook beta is super fun, felt like V5/6, and will get way more people on the climb. Also I'm not a fan of eliminates and climbing is a progressive sport, eliminating the toe hooks is like saying you can't knee bar. I think the boulders true line is with the toe hooks and creates an awesome unique problem, without them its just a powerful eliminate. Maybe we just give it a new name, with its location and comfy holds it could become a classic.

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