REI Community
Pywiak Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aqua Knobby T 
Dike Route, The T,S 
Electric Africa T 
European Vacation S 
Foote Route T 
House Calls T 
Needle & Spoon S 
Zee Tree T,S 

The Dike Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Gerughty, Evje, & Meeks - 1966
Page Views: 6,355
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


The Dike Route follows an obvious system of (generally left-leaning) dikes up the right-hand end of Pywiak Dome. It is a great climb, but not for the faint-of-heart. Be very confident running it out on slabs -- the crux fourth pitch has the potential for 60-80' falls on 5.8 terrain in two different places, and a 30' fall on 5.9 ground. The other pitches are easier, but still very sparsely protected.

P1: Climb a long gradually steepening slab to a bolted anchor at a stance on the dike. This stance is roughly where two dikes intersect to form a cross. 5.4.

P2: Continue up the dike past a bolt and step left to another dike. Follow this up to a bolted anchor on a big ledge. 5.6.

P3: Follow the dike up past three bolts to another bolted anchor. 5.7.

P4: Continue upwards past a pair of bolts (old anchor) and then run it out on 5.8 terrain up to a steep bulge. Pull this bulge on good holds and continue relatively straight up to a thank-god bolt. This bolt is hard to spot -- it's pretty much straight up, perhaps slightly to the right of the last belay, but don't stray too far in that direction. After clipping this bolt there is a stretch of 5.9 (crux) climbing through some gold polish before finally reaching a bolted anchor.

P5: An easy pitch up to a bolted belay below the final headwall. This can be breached via a wide crack, but most parties rap from here with double ropes (follow the Needle Spoon route on the descent).


Five or six draws.

Photos of The Dike Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: [pano] P3, I think
[pano] P3, I think
Rock Climbing Photo: A late day climber on the dike route.
A late day climber on the dike route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber free soloing the Dike Route
Unknown climber free soloing the Dike Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Dike Route
BETA PHOTO: Dike Route
Rock Climbing Photo: perfection in fall
perfection in fall
Rock Climbing Photo: Dike Route, 5.9 R ©
BETA PHOTO: Dike Route, 5.9 R ©
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Overlay for Dike Route
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay for Dike Route

Comments on The Dike Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ol Toby
From: CA
Sep 12, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Beautiful line. A delicate dance up beautiful granite.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Even more R when you can't clip the bolt on the very polished upper part of P4 (really difficult to see because all the crystals glint in the sun, just like bolts) and your belayer gets the rope jammed. E1 5a in UK terms.
By Eric Foltz
From: California
May 21, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Lead this a few years back. Never did see the last bolt on P4 and ended up running it out to the anchors. Still one of the best routes you'll find this close to a road.
By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Nice line, right up the obvious dike on the dome. Bolts are spaced a bit far apart on the faces. Last pitch is the best.
By the professor
Jun 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

I too, never saw the mythical bolt on P4. The runout was at least 50 feet of mostly 5.9. Scary!
By Will Stat
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X

This is one of my proudest leads in Tuolumne. Pitch 4 didn't seem to have a distinct crux, it was a bunch of 8+/9 climbing on insecure slab features with huge runouts. Personally I think this route deserves an R/X rating, and P4 should be treated like an X rated climb. Sure, the rope will eventually catch the leader, but you can get really messed up in an 80'-100' slab tumble. Good luck riding that down safely, especially if you miss the second bolt. Keep cool, don't fall, and enjoy one of Tuolumne's best 5.9 slabs. What a line!
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jun 5, 2014

I did this with my brother many years ago. We were supposed to swap leads, but every time it was his turn he looked up and said "You Lead." The crux pitch had me blabbering like I was gonna die. I did make it and was pretty stoked! I remember sometime later doing some routes at the Bunny Slopes and watching a progression of 5 or 6 parties attempt this route and to the last they all bailed off before doing the crux pitch. That made me feel pretty good!!
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 26, 2015

As Ed H on Supertopo advises: think where would you stop to put in a bolt on the FA? The final bolt is up and right of the bulge, in a divot/depression area. Easy to find when you know where to look.
If not topping out, you can rap with a 70m.
By Oliver Abbitt
From: Santa Paula, California
Sep 15, 2015

Great route on superb granite. As good as a mini crest jewel.
BOLT BETA: I too missed the thank god bolt on pitch 4 but saw it once I was at the anchor. To reiterate- it is about 10 feet to the right once you pull the 5.8 bulge. Look for a natural trough in the wall that's good to stand in with a black xenolith in the middle. The bolt is at your face once you are on the black spot. There's no reason to miss it, and with that bolt the 5.9 climbing is scary but not shit your pants scary!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About