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Oliverian Notch
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Dike Route (incomplete), The T 
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The Dike Route (incomplete) 

WI3+ M3

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original: WI3+ M3 [details]
FA: Bradley White and Brendan, 1984
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 461
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 10, 2009

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Description 

Ascend left side of dike past bulge (WI3+) on hollow ice to long ramp (WI2) to second bulge (WI3+). After bulge traverse west on snow covered rock 50ft to tree belay. Brendan did mostly (M3) dry pointing because after I led it there wasn't much ice left.
At our belay spot we had to escape because Brendan had gotten his feat wet during the approach and his feat were numb. We would have continued straight up the crusty snow filled foot crack above us to the trees. At the trees traversing west a little to other trees there was a thick bulge 30ft (WI3+) curtain that we could have exited off the cliff. Sometimes, Climbs must be left unfinished. The crux was done, but Brendan's feet were more important.

Location 

The giant dike on the central western side of Owl's Head cliff. Rappel down by trees to the base.

Protection 

Stoppers and long slings, maybe there are some cam placements. The first pitch was a whole rope length with long run outs.


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