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The Juggernaut
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The Dihedral Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 750', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Galen Rowell, Vern Clevenger et. al. 1974
Season: Summer, Fall
Page Views: 822
Submitted By: JimmyB on Jul 22, 2014

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The first pitch of The Dihedral Route.


This route climbs the main left facing corner feature up the middle of Juggernaut’s North Face.
P1: Tunnel under the big block. Climb the steep twin cracks on the right headwall. 5.10
P2: Continue up the corner.
P3: Keep to the right most of the corners. Stem and jam up and right to a stance. 5.10
P4: Several options take you to the left side of the big ledge.
P5: There are three options to the top.
Option A: Climb the easy crack straight up from the left side of the ledge. 5.8
Option B: Start up the easy crack on the left side of the ledge, then move right up a splitter finger crack. 5.10-
Option C: From the right side of the ledge, climb up broken cracks, then traverse left up the splitter and then right up the finger crack to the top. This is the most sustained option. Manage rope drag. 5.10-


This route climbs the main dihedral on the center of the North Face.
The descent is a quick walk off right. Follow the sandy gully down the west side of the peak and back to the base.


Doubles 1 TCU-#2 Camalot
Single 0, #3 Camalot, #4 Camalot, wires

Photos of The Dihedral Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 of The Dihedral Route
Pitch 3 of The Dihedral Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for Dihedral Route
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Dihedral Route

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