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Two Eagle Peak
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Diamond, The T 

The Diamond 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: 
Season: Late Spring to late Summer
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Sep 15, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The Diamond on Two Eagle Peak

Description 

A not climbed very often semi-classic - which has some loose sections to negotiate.

The triangular face has a ramp which runs diagonally from the bottom left corner to right of what looks like the top. There's a shattered wide chimney at the start which as some loose rock, climb this and follow the ramp up and rightwards, with some high exposure, for a few pitches, route finding is a challenge towards the end of the ramp, finding the path of least resistance until the right ridge of the face can be followed leftwards to the top of the face.

From here there's a towered ridge which leads to the summit, which will require more pitches/simul-climbing.

Descent from the summit is via the Class 3 East Ridge.

If pressed for time one can descend a gully between the top of the face and the towered ridge westwards to a steep drop off, where a 100' rappel gains less technical ground.

Location 

Follow the faint Jigsaw Pass Trail, the route starts on the left side of the face.

Protection 

Standard trad rack of nuts and cams, no need to double up.


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By Ian McEleney
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Nov 11, 2015

This route is a fun adventure for folks wanting a a route with real alpine feel and length at a low technical difficulty. We found the occasional piton on the "rightward trending ramp". Near where the ramp ends at the right edge of the giant triangular face is a good looking crack system that's more like 5.9. Ignore it and follow the path of least resistance like the description says. After this was some classic Sierra ridge climbing and a fun little boulder problem onto the summit block.