The Diagonal: Right Finish
||Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
|Original: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Tim Farr, Jess Simon, Sep. 4 2013 (Portions of this finish had been climbed before, including the final wide crack)|
|Page Views: ||131|
|Submitted By: ||John Gassel on Aug 14, 2016|
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Tom following the upper portion of the route.
As you top out on The Diagonal
you'll probably think there can't be any more good rock above here. It doesn't look that inviting to be honest. However, the rock quality and aesthetics do get a lot better the further you go up. P1 (5.9+ 90')
: Move left from the belay and up to a big ledge. Before mantling up, you should be able to clip a bolt (with a long runner) that is on this ledge. Head up and right aiming for two bolts to guide you in the right direction. This marks the crux of the route. It's pretty short and well protected by the two close bolts. Move up from here and when possible get out right on the arête above. The exposure starts to kick in around here. There's a big ledge above this section that you can build a gear belay on. P2 (5.7, 40')
: Continue up to the obvious top. There's a really fun large hand crack near the top on the left that you shouldn't miss. A gear anchor at a nice ledge on the top of the cliff marks the end.
It's definitely possible to combine both of these pitches together without too much rope drag. Double ropes and long runners will help. Descent
: From the top, hike climber's right a bit to another rap route. It's a pretty obvious trail that may be marked with orange tape. Continue down towards the cliff until you reach a nice ledge with two anchors on it. The one closest to the edge will have rap rings. A single 60m rope will take you to the next ledge (I don't recommend 2 ropes for this first rap - a bit dirty). After that, a required double rope rap will take you back to the ground and your packs.
A few bolts on the first pitch. Trad gear required for both though. A single rack should do.