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The Devils Tongue 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dane Bass, Jimmy Forester, Rick Ross
Page Views: 968
Submitted By: kyber on Sep 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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P1 (12a, 115ft) is the highlight of this route!! technical climbing to a tongue like flake system (crux). once your on the tip of the tongue go over the roof grabbing out left to find an assortment of hard to reach holds which will bring you to the belay station. P2 (12b, 100ft) offers off-balance face climbing leading to twin snakelike tufas, pulling through this crux is hard but will put you at the next belay (at the base of the lower dihedral). P3 (5.9, 80ft) goes up the cool slanting dihedral...


from a distance its really easy to spot this climb, by using the two prominent stacked dihedrals. they look a little different when directly underneath so keep that in mind. hiking up estrellas canyon it will be the 1st climb you get to on club mex. belay to the left of the little tree.


you'll need around 15 quickdraws

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