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The Devil's Pitchfork 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Mike McEwen, Mark Axen 1971
Season: Not winter. Afternoon shade
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: Dj telle on Jun 28, 2017

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Description 

An old skool underground route that doesn't see much traffic. This route is a little test piece for the climber who is looking for something different on the Lemmon.

Layback (crux) the slabby flake with decent foot holds and make some bold moves to a chicken flake where you can whip out the cam ol western style and jam her in quick. After you have one or two good cams in, make tricky moves to a crack up higher then to some chicken heads and a small chimney. Belay above it.

Another one of those " they did that in the 70's?!" kinda routes.

Location 

30 ft right of glide path

Protection 

First piece of Pro is 12-15 ft up
Small rack to 3/3.5
Rock is solid


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 2, 2017

Nice going DJ. Glad to see some of these old lines getting climbed. These things are spooky and you can get hurt so good for you for doing it! I think I backed off this route a long time ago.
By Dj telle
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jul 3, 2017

Thanks Eric! It was cool running into this line hidden behind the trees. I wonder who was the last person to do it. Maybe it will see a few more ascents in the future.

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