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The Devil's Chimney Cliff

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Promised Land, The T 

The Devil's Chimney Cliff Rock Climbing 


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Location: 51.17949, -4.67405 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 50
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Sep 15, 2014
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Description 

A dark, forboding cliff tucked away in the South of Jenny's cove. The situation is impressive, the Devil's Chimney leering in from the West, the tottering Devil's Tower to the South and the incoming tide approaching from the North. Your escape back to the plateau is guarded by a smooth, black, greasy wall towering 80m above you, bristling with overhangs at half height and lichen above that.

The emphasis here is on commitment and a sense of adventure.

Getting There 

From just South of half way wall and before the Cheeses take a vague path seawards. Descend the grassy slopes until you can see the Devil's Tower, tenuously attached to the mainland. To its West there is a cluster of stakes, from which a 70m abseil down a grassy spur gets you to the boulder beach below the cliff. Accessible for about 2 hours either side of low tide, but factor in time for the bottom of the routes to dry out a bit.

Climbing Season

For the South West area.

Weather station 13.5 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Devil's Chimney Cliff

The Promised Land 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : The Devil's Chimney Cliff
One of the finest sea cliff adventures on the island: inspired route-finding on an intimidating cliff.P1, 30m, 5c.A committing start on good but often greasy holds gains a standing position at about 3m. Trend left onto the black slab, then up to the left-facing groove beneath the enormous roof system. Cross left under the roofs for about 5m until directly beneath a wide slot. This is where it starts to get wild! Pull up on good holds to get established in a back-and-foot position is the slot, th...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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