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Tarot Wall
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Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 
Devil, The S 
Earth Angel S 
Fapanese Direct S 
Fool, The S 
Goat F***er S 
Hanged Man, The S 
Horse, The T,S 
Lust S 
Magician, The T,S 
S.I.N. T 
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Wheel of Fortune S 

The Devil 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Jessica True, 2001
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 5,160
Submitted By: TBD on Oct 18, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (179)
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My 8 year old son, Moshe, sending his first outdoo...

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  • Description 

    The second bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start at a tree stump about 30' right of Earth Angel.

    Ascend a steep face on thin holds. It has sustained difficulty after a rest by the third bolt. The crux comes at a bulge above a horizontal crack about halfway up. Near the top, you can move right then back up left for the easiest line, or climb straight up past the last bolt for a harder variation.


    8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of The Devil Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: OS on the Devil. Nice work, Glen.
    OS on the Devil. Nice work, Glen.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Devil is the second bolted route from the left...
    BETA PHOTO: The Devil is the second bolted route from the left...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bart Calkins heading for the last bolt.
    Bart Calkins heading for the last bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bart Calkins nearing the top.
    Bart Calkins nearing the top.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bart Calkins starting up the route.
    Bart Calkins starting up the route.

    Comments on The Devil Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By William McGehee
    From: Choctaw, OK
    Jun 22, 2005

    Look for a 6" tall, WAY overused 'cheater-stump' at the base of this climb. For .11d, it seems reasonable that the line runs straight through the flared crack at the top (look at Ron Olsen's third photo below), and not right then back left to the rings. Much easier to bypass the would-be crux if you do go right at the flared crack, then back left again at the rings.~Wm
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 22, 2005
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    When I got on this I thought I was warming up on a 10d and looked at the top move and balked- I cheated right by grabbing an edge around the corner. Then I came down and did it direct and decided that it was pretty doable that way too, but the feet are somewhat poor. I think it was easy 5.11 (11a or 11b) if done directly through the flared crack, moderate 5.10 (10b or 10c) if cheating to the right up top. Regardless, fun and pumpy.
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Jul 16, 2005
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Perhaps the nicest route we climbed today! Felt like 5.11b/c, not as hard as Chairman of the Board.
    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 5, 2008

    Really fun route with good movement and good bolting. Agree it's more like 11b/c (and I went pretty much straight up at the end). Get on it!
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    May 17, 2009

    I made the mistake of warming up on this. We didn't know what it was, but it looked fun. Talk about a flash pump!
    By Caleb Phillips
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 18, 2009
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Solid 11b or easy 11c IMHO. Previous comments about bailing right towards the gully at the flaring crack are dead-on. There are also some sidepulls left just above the horizontal sloper/crack which I'd say need to be off-route for it to be 11b. With a little wandering left and right, it's still probably 10c or 10d.

    Fantastic climb overall. Sustained with interesting moves. Bolting is very safe and well done.
    By Wilky
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 18, 2011

    I left a pair of cracked Ray Bans at the bottom of this route on Saturday the 18th of June, 2011. I would really appreciate if they found their way back to me. Thank you so much. My email is
    By BrendanP Moran
    From: Fort Collins, Colorado
    Jul 19, 2012
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Worrying about what's "on" or "off" is only going to tarnish the quality of this route, just pick the line that you like best and fire away! Searching out the easiest holds puts the grade on the easy side of 11 for sure.
    By mrbiscoop
    May 26, 2013

    As with every sport route I've led, so long as I'm within arms length of the bolts, then I am on route.
    By Greg Barnes
    9 hours ago

    The first bolt, and the seventh bolt, were spinning bolts (not just spinning hangers which is no big deal - the actual bolt was spinning). Both hangers were a bit out from the rock too.

    Replaced both of those today with glue-ins, the first with a large Twisted Leg bolt (316 ss), the seventh with a Fixe Hely (Duplex 2304 stainless steel aka PLX). I managed to pull the first bolt cleanly and re-use the hole, but the seventh bolt broke at the neck (after a lot of work) so a new hole was needed (the old hole was patched).

    The right bolt at the anchor also spins if you try to tighten it with a wrench, but it doesn't move at all when weighted straight out, and considering how difficult it was to remove the spinning pro bolts I can't imagine any scenario where the anchor bolt could fail.

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