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The Deviate 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Tom Higgins, Ben Borson (1968)
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: Salamanizer suchoski on Dec 1, 2014

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Pulling the final mantle on the "not recommen...

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Description 

The Deviate climbs an inconspicuous section of the east wall that starts on gigantic dikes that crisscross the wall. Eventually (about 40ft up) you'll run into the first gear on the route which is behind a narrow ledge that is hard to spot from the ground. Continue heading more or less strait up beautiful solid granite with sporadic opportunities for gear. Head for a white patch of granite with a short vertical crack running through it about 100+ft up the wall. You will find good gear and a great spot to stop and build a belay.

Pitch 2 climbs up the vertical crack onto more dikes with better opportunities for gear along the way. Trend right after about 50ft of climbing shooting to meet up with the large belay ledge that is also the top of the first pitch of Psychedelic Tree.

Climb the last pitch of Psychedelic Tree to the top.

There is also a third pitch that has been done which leads to the upper ledge of Psychedelic Tree, topping out on it's very left side but is of low quality and high commitment. It is not recommended to the civilized climber, as doing so may result in surfing a gigantic slab, or rolling precariously without much control, having little trust in (while descending rapidly past) ones scarcely allotted protections.
However, if you must; From the top of the first pitch, climb up as you would for the normal second pitch, but do not veer to the right heading toward the big ledge of Psychedelic Tree. Continue strait up through slabs and bulges keeping a keen eye for any potential gear. You will not find much. Continue up through some very expansive (thin) detached plates. Beyond these plates is a section of difficult slab which ends on a narrow sloping ledge. No gear will be found here, however it is only one short (5.10+) mantle before 5.10 slabs will deliver you to the big ledge and trees which give name to the route Psychedelic Tree. It is a 170ft pitch.

Location 

The Deviate climbs up the right side of a gigantic white streak that splits the East Wall, located 30 or so feet left of Psychedelic Tree.

Protection 

Cams, single to 3" Nuts, 1 set.


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