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Deviate Direct, The T 

The Deviate Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ? Larry Treiber and Barbara Zinn.
Page Views: 153
Submitted By: pseudalpine on Jan 15, 2015

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BETA PHOTO:

PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

 

South face, Left of Palo Verde tree.

P1: Face with some loose flakes (5.6) to shallow bowl and crack. Follow crack through another bowl, slightly angling right over loose rock following smaller crack to base of overhang. Crack continues over two bulges then traverse right, stemming faces, another short face to access ledge and belay.

P2: Angle right, then left across easy face around corner, up broken face, past shallow vertical crack. Traverse left, cam horizontal crack, clip bolt, then up steep face (5.8) using several small depressions and thin crack. Grade continues through some horizontal cracks with shelves and large blocky section with vertical cracks to boulder belay.

Downclimb gully/faces (cl.3) on eastside to piton/bolt single line rappel.

 

Cams, tricams, nuts. One old, rusty Leeper at crux.


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