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North-East Face
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Absent Friends S 
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Da Mogwai S 
Deviant, The S 
Duck S 
Mr. Greenwood S 
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Pumpy Brewster S 
Sha Bi Ab Bi S 
Too Much Ecstasy S 
Wonderful World S 

The Deviant 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Collis et al (04/2007)
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Sep 13, 2016

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Looking down P3

Description 

Wish I could give this a better rating, as it's a moderate multi-pitch up an amazing wall overlooking pastoral farmland, but alas...

The first pitch has two alternatives. The direct version looks better and should probably be posted as a separate entry by someone who does it. You can also traverse in from the cave, trending left along the slab, crossing Never-ending Story. Move straight up from here (crux) to the nasty-azz anchor, then continue left to another, then continue along to the ledge. Rope drag can be a pain.

Second pitch moves up the crack. Tricky if you're not a jammer. Once through this, stem out and up into the stacked blocks. Romp upwards to an anchor.

Third pitch continues along this ledge-system-weakness as it becomes more scrambly and broken. Step around the plant, past the chimney, and onto the slab. Climb this easily upwards, then pull gently over the chunks at the top to a ledge without much of a view.

The rappel from here requires some shenanigans traversing back to the right. Be sure to back it up with an autoblock. Second rappel is fairly straightforward, just stay right. Third rappel to the base of the direct start, then bushwack back to your packs.

Location 

Far left side of the North-East Face

Protection 

Bolts, maybe some slings


Photos of The Deviant Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Emma going up P2
Emma going up P2

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