REI Community
(6) First Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Days, 30 Meters S 
Agar Jelly S 
Breezy T 
Calypso T 
Cape to the Sky S 
Clean Face S 
Commissary Crack T 
Crow, The T 
Deceiving Arete S 
Desert, The S 
Dragon Arete S 
Grass T 
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 
Heaven's Falling T,S 
Hornet's Nest T 
Missionary T 
Muddy Undercling T 
Noodle Line T 
Sorry Valentine S 
Teratism T 
Walkway S 
Westbound Road T 
Wonderland Fairy S 

The Desert 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Oct 3, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>


The guidebook gives this a 12d rating, which must require you to avoid the jugs in the crack to the right. A fall at this point would be perfectly safe, and the sequence afterwards takes you right back to the bolt line, so it doesn't really make much sense to avoid it.

Anyway! Start up twin cracks, the right-most of which quickly becomes a deep pod. There is probably a sequence to avoid this, but again, it would be utterly contrived as you can easily and safely clip the bolts from the security of the pod. Sling the last bolt before the roof. Find the proper handles on the lip and don't be afraid to get your feet up to the right. A wild series of pulls on cracks and pockets leads to an undercling and possible jug-rest. Move left, clip, then make a tough pull to establish yourself on the slab. From here, it's all technical slab technique to the jugs just before the anchor.


On the South Claw of First Cave. North-facing wall. The twin cracks that lead up to a roof and then a slab above.


316 steel bolts (2011/12)

Comments on The Desert Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About