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Routes in (6) First Cave
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Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Boba Milk Tea 波霸奶茶 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Commissary Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Freddy's Nightmare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jabba the Hutt 赫特族的賈霸 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lucid Dreaming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poopee 便便噓噓 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Reggae T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shark Attack 鯊魚攻擊 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Visage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Westbound Road T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 614 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Oct 2, 2016 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
The guidebook gives this a 12d rating, which must require you to avoid the jugs in the crack to the right. A fall at this point would be perfectly safe, and the sequence afterwards takes you right back to the bolt line, so it doesn't really make much sense to avoid it.
Anyway! Start up twin cracks, the right-most of which quickly becomes a deep pod. There is probably a sequence to avoid this, but again, it would be utterly contrived as you can easily and safely clip the bolts from the security of the pod. Sling the last bolt before the roof. Find the proper handles on the lip and don't be afraid to get your feet up to the right. A wild series of pulls on cracks and pockets leads to an undercling and possible jug-rest. Move left, clip, then make a tough pull to establish yourself on the slab. From here, it's all technical slab technique to the jugs just before the anchor.
Anyway! Start up twin cracks, the right-most of which quickly becomes a deep pod. There is probably a sequence to avoid this, but again, it would be utterly contrived as you can easily and safely clip the bolts from the security of the pod. Sling the last bolt before the roof. Find the proper handles on the lip and don't be afraid to get your feet up to the right. A wild series of pulls on cracks and pockets leads to an undercling and possible jug-rest. Move left, clip, then make a tough pull to establish yourself on the slab. From here, it's all technical slab technique to the jugs just before the anchor.
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