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(6) First Cave
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The Desert 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Nate Ball on Oct 3, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: topo

Bolts Are Failing! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The guidebook gives this a 12d rating, which must require you to avoid the jugs in the crack to the right. A fall at this point would be perfectly safe, and the sequence afterwards takes you right back to the bolt line, so it doesn't really make much sense to avoid it.

Anyway! Start up twin cracks, the right-most of which quickly becomes a deep pod. There is probably a sequence to avoid this, but again, it would be utterly contrived as you can easily and safely clip the bolts from the security of the pod. Sling the last bolt before the roof. Find the proper handles on the lip and don't be afraid to get your feet up to the right. A wild series of pulls on cracks and pockets leads to an undercling and possible jug-rest. Move left, clip, then make a tough pull to establish yourself on the slab. From here, it's all technical slab technique to the jugs just before the anchor.

Location 

On the South Claw of First Cave. North-facing wall. The twin cracks that lead up to a roof and then a slab above.

Protection 

316 steel bolts (2011/12)


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