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Desert is For Dreamers, The T 

The Desert is For Dreamers 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Z Harrison, B McCord
Season: Not Winter
Page Views: 440
Submitted By: Blake M on Apr 25, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The summit

Description 

Pitch 1 (5.6a/c) - 0' / 60'
From the north-west corner of the tower, scramble up to a ledge with a belay bolt and a small cam. From here step down and traverse the ledge system to a bolted anchor below the splutter.

Pitch 2 (5.11) - 140'
Climb up to a lone bolt step left entering the system. Hands, baggy hands, hands, baggy hands, a fist, more baggy hands and a few hand jams lead you to the anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.11++) - 60'
Righteous NASCAR campus traversing past bolts leads to an improbable move up, followed by and improbable move up. Extend the bolt on the floor. Once topping out look for an anchor to your right. This pitch is fully bolted.

Descent
Make a 35m rap off the north-west corner into the notch. A second short rap will take you back to your pack

Location 

North Face of ASC Tower. Follow description on the ASC Tower. Topo Photo also has a map

Protection 

1x #1c3 - .5
2x .75,2
3-4 #1
6-7 #3
Optional 2x #4 (Can replace 2 #3's)
2 Draws
4 Runners
70m Rope


Photos of The Desert is For Dreamers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Snyder and Zach Harrison on the final pitch
Jeff Snyder and Zach Harrison on the final pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach beta
BETA PHOTO: Approach beta
Rock Climbing Photo: The chalkstone tunnel on the approach
BETA PHOTO: The chalkstone tunnel on the approach
Rock Climbing Photo: The second pitch. Splitter
The second pitch. Splitter
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Snyder on the second pitch.  Photo: Blake McC...
Jeff Snyder on the second pitch. Photo: Blake McC...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route / Approach Topo
BETA PHOTO: Route / Approach Topo

Comments on The Desert is For Dreamers Add Comment
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By Zach Harrison
Apr 25, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

About as comical as it gets for the sand. Improbably steep and exposed summit line. Worth the slog.

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