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21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Children of Light S 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Ol' 5.10 S 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Rocket In My Pocket T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Fist T 
Stone Groove T 

The Deer Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 761
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 29, 2013

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun caving adventure up the inside of the Reed's Pinnacle. It's a good pick for a warm day, or as a night-climb since you need a headlamp anyways. It's possible to start it either from the Left Side route, or from a hole in the wall at the start of P2 of the Direct route. Starting from the Direct route is probably the more classic option.

The chimney is straightforward for the most part. You can follow the inside of the Reed's Direct crack for a ways, but eventually you need to traverse left because the top of the chimney is capped by a bunch of chockstones. Don't place gear too high or you'll probably get terrible rope drag later on, and I'd worry about the ropes dislodging loose stuff from under the chockstone roof.

The exit is directly below the "tunnel through" on P3 of the Regular Route. This section is a bit of a squeeze. This "crux" defies all conventions of the Yosemite Decimal System, so it's hard to put a grade on. I'm a lightweight at 130lbs, and wiggled through no problem. I think it's tighter than the Narrows on the S-S, so if you found that claustrophobic you'll probably have a hard time with this one. In any case, you can either end the climb atop the large ledge to the right, or continue the traverse up and left if you want to finish on the Regular Route to the top of the pinnacle.

  • A most excellent Trip Report with lots of photos can be found here
supertopo.com/tr/The-DEER-Rout...

Protection 

Headlamps.

I actually didn't place any gear, despite lugging a #6 and a few other pieces all the way up it. The chimney is secure the whole way, and you gear options will all lead to rope drag at the top.


Comments on The Deer Route Add Comment
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By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Jan 28, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you do bring any pro, hanging glowsticks on the gear make the scene a little more fun. :-)
By Evan Wisheropp
Oct 2, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I absolutely loved this route. Climbing up the backside of Reed's and looking out of the crack while people were sticking their hands in the crack was surreal. Where else can you get an inside-out perspective from a hand crack? Aside fro the unique position, the climbing is genuinely fun. The traverse gets wider and hits a bit of less-than-clean rock. I actually had a lot of fun trying to find the exit; its farther than you think. I also came across a bat hanging from one of the nearby chockstones.

I imagine that if you were planning placing gear, you would only want to protect the bottom half of the crack, then either run it out on the traverse or place a gold big bro. A few blue big bros would protect the crux squeeze I think.

The crux squeeze also felt very similar to Yosemite 5.8-5.9 squeeze. The guys in the trip report called it 5.9, and I would agree. I don't think the guide authors who called it 5.7 ever climbed the route seeing that they drew the route in the wrong spot. Regardless of the grade, just be ready for some tight squeeze with some route finding to find a wide enough passageway if you are over 145 pounds (me).