|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Bryan G on Apr 29, 2013|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Deer Route||Add Comment|
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By Mark P Thomas
Jan 28, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|If you do bring any pro, hanging glowsticks on the gear make the scene a little more fun. :-)|
By Evan Wisheropp
Oct 2, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I absolutely loved this route. Climbing up the backside of Reed's and looking out of the crack while people were sticking their hands in the crack was surreal. Where else can you get an inside-out perspective from a hand crack? Aside fro the unique position, the climbing is genuinely fun. The traverse gets wider and hits a bit of less-than-clean rock. I actually had a lot of fun trying to find the exit; its farther than you think. I also came across a bat hanging from one of the nearby chockstones.
I imagine that if you were planning placing gear, you would only want to protect the bottom half of the crack, then either run it out on the traverse or place a gold big bro. A few blue big bros would protect the crux squeeze I think.
The crux squeeze also felt very similar to Yosemite 5.8-5.9 squeeze. The guys in the trip report called it 5.9, and I would agree. I don't think the guide authors who called it 5.7 ever climbed the route seeing that they drew the route in the wrong spot. Regardless of the grade, just be ready for some tight squeeze with some route finding to find a wide enough passageway if you are over 145 pounds (me).