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The Dead Terrorist 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Schuessler, Matt Myers. 8-4-2012
Page Views: 7,913
Submitted By: MattMyers on Oct 16, 2012  with updates from Alex Fletcher

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at the end of P.4


This super fun route takes a beautiful position on the cliff as it wanders upwards. Fully bolted, no trad gear necessary!

P1. 5.7. 9 Bolts, Chain Anchor, 90 feet. Start by climbing “Rumble in the Rubble” Clip the “Rumble” anchor with a quickdraw and continue up past bolts and a permadraw up to the Anchor on a shared belay ledge with “Eco Challenge”.

P.2. 5.8. 11 Bolts, Chain Anchors, 90 feet. Climb up the beautiful slab tending right staying close to and sometimes on the arête. About 2/3 up traverse right passing the arête and head into the corner, then up the block to finish on the “Sniper Ledge”.
(P.1 & P.2 can be combined for a 180’ pitch. You can retreat by two 100’ rappels)

WARNING: Pitches 3 and 4 have been completely removed due to loose rock. Bolts and anchors have been taken out. Please do not climb.


Start by climbing Rumble in the Rubble.


Fully bolted, Chain anchors. Can be done with 12 quickdraws and a 60m rope!

Photos of The Dead Terrorist Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dead Terrorist ridge traverse  P1: 5.7 P2: 5.8 P3:...
BETA PHOTO: Dead Terrorist ridge traverse P1: 5.7 P2: 5.8 P3:...
Rock Climbing Photo: The awesome Traverse. Best part of the route
The awesome Traverse. Best part of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: On top of the Dead Terrorist, Frustration Creek.
On top of the Dead Terrorist, Frustration Creek.
Rock Climbing Photo: Carlos at the P.4 Anchor.
Carlos at the P.4 Anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: Carlos finishing the crux.
Carlos finishing the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Carlos says "Wild" on the traverse.
Carlos says "Wild" on the traverse.

Comments on The Dead Terrorist Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 13, 2016
By ...........................
Oct 16, 2012

For more info check out the following:
By Clement Laksana
Nov 13, 2012

awesomely fun route, amazing exposure on P2 and 4
By Jeff Edge
Feb 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed the route today, some loose rock but not bad at all.

If I was you, I would:
-link pitches 2&3 (pitch 3 is just a short scramble up to p4 belay)
-leave all draws on P4 traverse for your second (even the sketchy stump)
-link pitches 5&6 if you backclean a few draws or run it out, drags not too bad at all

Didn't do the final pitch, rapped off the anchors just to the right (about 2 feet down and to the right) of the P6 anchors. 2 Ropes got us to the "sidewalk" ledge (I think, fixed line on it..pretty big. We were about 20 ft past the middle (on 2 60m) so if rapping with one 60m from P6 you'd want to find some intermediary anchors to gain an extra 15-20ft. Then another double rope simul-rap from the ledge got us down below the upper falls.

Thanks very much to the FAist for such a fun route so close to home, appreciate the incredible amount of effort it must have taken to clean.
Also, one of the bolts on the slab face of p5(or beginning of 6) was smashed flat, could still get a draw on and climbing was super easy right there anyway.
By flyingmonkey
From: Costa Mesa, CA
May 6, 2013

climbed it today. the traverse is fun. lots of bolts and anchors around. bring 2 ropes for long raps. lost of chossy stuff. would not come back for this one. but lots of solid single pitch hard climbs
By Garrett Wardlow
From: Huntington Beach, CA
Mar 24, 2014

Super fun route. Pitch 4 is the best but felt much harder than 5.8. I'd say more like .10...
By mnjsan
Apr 28, 2014

Really enjoyed the route. Pitch 4 which is the traverse was especially fun. 2 things to note though are there is some loose rock on pitches 5-7. There isnt a ton of it but whats there is big. Any one walking out of the canyon or on the lower routes is in the direct line of the rock fall so be careful. Also the route info should be updated to rappel only. The walk off is almost non existent and very hard to find. Your much better rapping since there are a ton of anchors below you.
By Alan-C
Jun 1, 2014

Pitch 2 gets a bit confusing when you hit the arete for the sniper ledge: there is 1 bolt on the arete (5.10?), 1 painted bolt in the corner left of the arete (5.6/7?), and about 3 bolts protecting moves to climb the right side of the arete (5.7/8?) [the first of which is on the right side of the original arete, other 2 on the right of the sniper-ledge arete].
DO NOT CLIP THE FACE ARETE BOLT unless you climb straight up the face to the gigantic ledge, as it will cause exceedingly high rope-drag (read: z-clip) if you choose either the right or left routes.
By Andrew Nelson
Jul 6, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route! We linked pitches 2-3 and 5-6. Traverse is quite awkward and a bit scarey. For those who like exposure, this pitch has a lot of it! Note of caution, there is webbing extending a chain on the traverse. I would clip directly into the bolt as the webbing is getting kind of worn. Heard one too many stories about webbing failing on people to trust it! If I had been thinking clearly (read: not scared) I would have taken the time to remove the webbing. The chain is long enough that it isn't an issue. Rock is a little lose on the lower sections, but is quite solid after the traverse.
By Countzen Shin
From: Santa Monica, CA
Sep 29, 2014

You can get down by rapping twice with a 70m rope, from the LONG top chains. With a 70m, you will end just right at where the white hand-line is, and where the anchors with the wood backing (Why?) is.
By Mtnfly
From: El Segundo, Ca
Oct 10, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Pitch 4 did feel harder than 5.8. Rapped with a single 70m to intermediate anchors on pitch 4 or 5. Fun day outside but there I are lots of loose rocks.
By joey peterson
Mar 18, 2015

Cool climb but only 3 pitches
By Aaron Lawrence
From: Redlands
Mar 19, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

i think the developers should go back and finish cleaning the route. way to much loose rock.
By Alex Fletcher
From: San Clemente, CA
May 13, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Warning: Pitches 3 and 4 have been removed. Bolts and anchors are gone. I did the 3rd pitch (5.4) by placing a couple medium BD cams. Once on top of the lower buttress it was completely choss and that's when I realized the mistake of going up there. With no chain anchor in sight, I tied a 25 ft. cordelette around a sketch boulder and rapped down. I did not attempt the traverse at all.

Pitch 1 and 2 are good to climb though. The bushes are starting to grow pretty big however and one was concealing a bolt until I was nearly to the next one and happened to look down and see it. It was the one after the permadraw (which appears to still be in good condition as of 05/12/2016). Never felt too run out or anything to worry about though. Would recommend climbing the first two pitches still.

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