REI Community
The Dead Snag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ad Lib T 
Alor 1 T 
Call Me Slim T 
Dead Snag Direttissima T 
Die Another Day T 
Double Bock T 
East Dihedrals T 
Force of Nature T 
Funk T 
Gypsy Girl S 
Jig's Up T 
North Dihedrals T 
North Ridge T 
R&B T 
Rock! T 
Social Engineering T 
Steorts' Ridge T 
Tiger's Den T 

The Dead Snag Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.62082, -111.74466 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,375
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Oct 5, 2003  with updates from SpencerB BB

39° | 30°

48° | 33°

55° | 37°

60° | 41°

61° | 43°

63° | 44°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Dead snag from the road above the storm mountain p...


With a short approach, long routes, and good rock this is a great area for beginning trad climbers, or a great place to just get out and cruise on a lazy day.

Getting There 

Driving up Big Cottonwood Canyon you will come to the Storm Mountain Picnic Area (about 2.8 miles up canyon). Parking is up to your personal preference, along the road, a pullout a bit further, the picnic area itself. Either way, the formation is across the road from the Storm Mountain Picnic Area (on the south side of the canyon.) Locate the Storm Mountain Trail, follow the trail southward, after 5 minutes of walking (approx.)you will see the Dead Snag crag to the west, drop down to the right, cross the creek and make your way to the base. Total approach time is about 15 minutes tops.

Alternately, Park on the right across from Storm Mountain Picnic Area. Walk back down the canyon 100 yards or so until you pass a rocky gully/stream on your left (there is a culvert under the road). Just past the stream, scramble up the steep rock steps into the woods to a trail. Follow the trail for about 10 minutes (ignore side trails) until you reach the cliff base. Parallel the cliff (going climbers left/uphill) past a small clearing with signs of camp fires until you get to the base of the arete where Sterots' Ridge begins.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.1 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Dead Snag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Dead Snag:
Steorts' Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Jig's Up   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 380'   
East Dihedrals   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
North Dihedrals   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Rock!   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Dead Snag Direttissima   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
Call Me Slim   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Ad Lib   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 55'   
Social Engineering   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Force of Nature   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Dead Snag

Featured Route For The Dead Snag
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Pitch 2

Jig's Up 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : The Dead Snag
The beginning of the route is just left of the arete that borders the east and north face of the Dead Snag Arete. This is the same 1st pitch as Steort's Ridge. Climb the broken face and work the easy roof, then continue up the face to the ledges after about 120 feet. Skip the 1st ledge and hit the 2nd one which has a piton (It is bigger and easier to set up an anchor). Pitch 2 makes this climb as it works the finger/hand cracks that climb this face. The consistency of these cracks are incre...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of The Dead Snag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dead snag from the road above the storm mountain p...
BETA PHOTO: Dead snag from the road above the storm mountain p...
Rock Climbing Photo: This shows the top of Call Me Slim and Force of Na...
This shows the top of Call Me Slim and Force of Na...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Dead Snag
BETA PHOTO: The Dead Snag
Rock Climbing Photo: Steort's Ridge is on the arete.  East Dihedrals is...
BETA PHOTO: Steort's Ridge is on the arete. East Dihedrals is...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Dead Snag cliff from the trail across the road...
BETA PHOTO: The Dead Snag cliff from the trail across the road...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dead Snag w/o lines
BETA PHOTO: Dead Snag w/o lines

Comments on The Dead Snag Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Mar 21, 2007
Just a sampling of history from Gottman's guide from 1979:
"The Alpenbock Club was active in this area which they called the Astronaut Arete."
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jul 4, 2011
The rock type here takes a little while to get used to if you've never climbed on it before.
By pdubz
Jul 2, 2012
Found a piece of anchoring equipment yesterday at the top rap station. ID it and it's yours.
By tenesmus
Jul 30, 2015
What time of day to those North Facing routes go into summer shade?
By ddriver
From: SLC
Jul 30, 2015
Will depend on the month, but in July the leader will get sun directly in the face by 12:30 or 1, making visibility problematic. By 3 or so the base (but not the routes) starts to come back into shade and the conditions improve enough to go for it.
By Todd Green
From: SLC, UT
Sep 13, 2015
Alternative (IMO easier) directions for getting there if you are used to climbing at the Challenge Buttress (if not, read its description). Park in the pull out for the Challenge Buttress. Cross the road and follow the trail just to the right of the gulch. Don't take the right fork (which goes to Challenge), but instead follow straight up the trail with the buttress just on your right side. 10 minutes tops (more like 5 if you are in any sort of shape) and you'll be at the base of Steort's. I'm not sure why the description talks about parking up at Storm Mountain which is a bit further up canyon and some longer convoluted 15 minute hike. This way is dead simple (no pun intended.)
By tenesmus
Oct 2, 2015
Feels like the progression for BCC trad is to do the classic .6 and .7's. Then do everything at Bumble Bee for the .8 and .9 experience. Then come back here to Dead Snag and do the .9's and .10's. Then go to Psychobabble and freak out a little bit. Then come back here for the .11a.
By MikeyHeinz
From: SLC, UT
Oct 31, 2016
Just a friendly reminder to everyone climbing in this area, or anywhere around SLC for that matter, please leave your valuables locked in your car or take them up with you on the climb. My girlfriend had her iPhone stolen out of her backpack at the base of Steorts' Ridge on Saturday, presumably from a guy who was alone and wandering around saying he was looking for some shoes he left at the base. This area is easily accessible from the road, and it seems like theft is becoming more and more of an issue in all of the canyons as people see that climbers leave items at the base of climbs unattended.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About