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Day After les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot, The T 
French Reality T 
General Malaise T 
Man Yoga T,S 
Nemesis 
Nightmare on Wolf Street T 
Rhamnusia T 
Suffer Machine 

The Day After les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot 

WI6 M7 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 7 pitches, 885', Grade V
Original: WI6 M7 PG13 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 373
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Mar 17, 2016

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P6 and 7 climb steep ice to the top. Pick the lin...

Description 

This route is the real deal when it comes to difficult mixed on the Headwall, it never lets up. Hard dry tooling on gear, and ice that ranges from veneer, to eggshell, to stacked fins, to good water ice.
P1) climbs through the rock band leading up to the big snow ledge. Significant avi hazard on the approach slope to this pitch!
P2) 30 m, M7- Starts 10 m around the corner to the left of Nightmare on Wolf Street. This is the starting point for most parties who climb the route. Climb a shallow, broken corner (sometimes some ice) to a ledge belay with two fixed pins.
P3) 20 m, M7. Climb a steep, shallow dihedral, to the next two-pin belay.
P4) 35 m M7, PG 13. Continue up the dihedral, tricky climbing with poor feet on adequate but tedious gear placements. There is a fixed angle at the top of the corner. Carefully continue up and right on poor pro across lower angle rock that can be either bare, snow covered, ice covered, or all of the above, eventually reaching the bolted station of Nightmare.
P5) 50 m, M6, WI4-5. Traverse 10 m right to a chimney, that hopefully will have ice on the left wall. Climb the chimney and continue up and right to a belay below steep ice.
P6) 50 m, WI6 Climb difficult, sustained ice to a belay below the final ice wall.
P7) 35 m, WI 5+ 20 m to the top, then traverse 15 m to the left and build an anchor.
Descent:
1) From this anchor, rappel 50 m to a 2 - bolt Extreme Comfort rap anchor.
2) 50 m rappel to Nightmare bolted station on the ledge.
3) 65 m rappel to the big snow ledge, and Nightmare anchor.
4) 50 m to base of P1, only if you approached from below the big snow ledge.

Location 

Monsieur Hulot start just left of Nightmare on Wolf Street. Most parties start at P2, after traversing the avalanche prone snow ledge. A series of bolts can be found along the traverse every 30 - 40 m, but will be pretty high up if snow level is low.

Protection 

1 set C3's and C4's to #3, stoppers 4 - 13. 4 short, 2 long knife blades. A couple short lost arrows might be useful.


Photos of The Day After les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P4 is the crux, starts hard and gets harder. Pro i...
P4 is the crux, starts hard and gets harder. Pro i...
Rock Climbing Photo: P5 traverses right, and then up the chimney. Photo...
P5 traverses right, and then up the chimney. Photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 is more secure at the start, going for a fixed ...
P3 is more secure at the start, going for a fixed ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2.  Not real difficult, but insecure. Photo:...
Pitch 2. Not real difficult, but insecure. Photo:...
Rock Climbing Photo: Monsieur Hulot is on the far left of this photo, a...
BETA PHOTO: Monsieur Hulot is on the far left of this photo, a...

Comments on The Day After les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Mar 23, 2016

By Maarten van Haeren
Dec 10, 2016

As an alternate descent, rappel the top ice pitches straight down from threads to the bolted station below P6 (first true ice pitch). From here, rappel ~50m to a station on Dawn of the Dead (two bolts), then down ~50m to the big traverse ledge. The final rappel goes over the huge roof on P1 of Dawn of the Dead, mind the icicles!

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