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The Dawn Chimney 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 690', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Adam Pecan, Brandon Gottung. December 2, 2015.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: Adam Pecan on Dec 14, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

The Dawn Chimney climbs the unmistakeable red hanging flake of the Lisu area. Not really a chimney, but you sure will use a ton of stemming and chimney technique. First aided to the top of the flake by Griff in 2012, the line now goes free to the rim. Wildly exposed, sustained, and adventuresome climbing. Think Moab area tower route. Bring the camera to take pictures of your buddies on the classic Back to the Primitive.

See too photo

P1. Start via the classic Clam Digger and step right to its first anchor. 5.10c

P2. Step right to climb Attempted Suicide (gear through 5). Bolted anchor. 5.11-

P3. Traverse left and then right up a dirt ramp, pulling a move or two, to belay at a tree with a sling. 5.4

P4. Step right and climb blocks to a fun finger crack. More moderate terrain leads to a bolted belay beneath the flake. 5.8

P5. Bombay roof traverse. WILD. Tight fingers off the belay through a small roof. Clip a bolt, bury the #5 in the constriction, and layback or ow up into the bombay. Secure, though be prepared to climb well above your #5. Traverse out of the flake clipping a bolt, pass a hanging belay, and step right to the amazing perch on the edge of the flake (six star belay). Bring some long runners. 10+ pg13? 25m

P6. Chimney, jam, and stem with great exposure past three bolts, over a bulge, and onto a ledge. Either head straight up at 10+ through easy ow to an off fingers bulge or step left for more exposure and climb the steep fingers to thin hand flake at 5.11 (Beware, top of the flake is detached, step right at this point). Tunnel behind a large refrigerator chockstone, passing a bolted belay, and climb the triple cracks in beautiful rock to the anchor. 5.10+. 35m

P7. Carefully head up the bottomless chimney through loose terrain toward a tree growing sideways out of the chimney. Note for belayer: Wear or helmet or better, tether in long and stay sheltered under the roof to the right. Sling the tree and traverse left toward the lip to find a splitter tips and finger crack! Follow this out of the chimney and up a beautiful corner with bottlenecks for large stoppers. (Corner opens up behind the crack, but you can protect it well if you hunt for it) Gear belay on ledge. 5.10 pg 40m

P8. It ain't over till it's over! Stem and jam through a hands/fist bulge off the belay and up the corner above. Bring the 4s and 5. Head up a final steep v slot with some thin pro to top out. Belay at the dead tree back and left (should have a rope on it). 10+. 20m

Descent
You can rap with a 70 from the top of p6 (but why would you?) After that you must top out. Walk off as per Back to the Primitive/ Lost World. Walk right for no more than 10 m then head uphill via slabs in a clearing. Trend uphill and left skirting the crest of the hill on its right side. Find faint trail that heads down and left to the drainage on the back side of the hill. You don't want to find this in the dark.

Protection 

Singles: 0TCU, #5 camalot (used on p2, 5, and 8)
Doubles: 1TCU - #4 camalot
Triples: .5, .75, optional #1 camalot for p1 (or use fingers piece)
A few med-lg stoppers (mostly for p7)


Photos of The Dawn Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brandon on the beautiful clam digger during the FF...
Brandon on the beautiful clam digger during the FF...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful triple cracks at the top of p6
Beautiful triple cracks at the top of p6
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 Attempted Suicide
P2 Attempted Suicide
Rock Climbing Photo: The six star belay
The six star belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo from the depths of the bombay roof traverse....
Photo from the depths of the bombay roof traverse....
Rock Climbing Photo: Stoked for the p5 bombay
Stoked for the p5 bombay
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of p6. So much fun!
Start of p6. So much fun!
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the freshly scrubbed corner of p7
Looking down the freshly scrubbed corner of p7
Rock Climbing Photo: The line. The Lost World is visible on the left bu...
The line. The Lost World is visible on the left bu...

Comments on The Dawn Chimney Add Comment
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By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Dec 28, 2015

I had a great time on this route! Don't let the 10+ grade fool you - it feels more intense than its neighbors, earning it a grade IV. I didn't lead the crux pitch, but it seemed bold. Nice lead Adam! Permission granted to add a bolt to the run-out bit. That pitch earns the world class Six Star Belay! And on P7, I did a lousy job cleaning the chimney, sorry, spent all the time digging dirt out of finger crack higher up. If a follower wouldn't mind cleaning a couple those loose bits out of there, it should clean up well. All-in-all, it's a great route, well equipped, with good variety and phenomenal exposure.

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