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Center Squeeze T 
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Tunnel Vision T 

The Darkhorse 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bryan Smith, Kevin Evansen, 2/15/09.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 838
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Center Squeeze to Naughty & Nice


Boulder up steep face just left of "Tunnel Vision" start. Clip 2 bolts, then use natural protection to continue straight up through some ledges, some in-cut holds, then a thin seam. Clip a mercy bolt where seam peters out, then traverse left onto stacked blocks below a roof. Crank through the roof on its left side, then follow hand crack to anchor. Toprope FA Bryan Smith, Joseph Healy 6/18/08 going the harder upper right hand variation. FFA: Bryan Smith, Kevin Evansen, 2/15/09.


gear to 3"

Photos of The Darkhorse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Silas trying to psyche up for the roof.
Silas trying to psyche up for the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Whew! Made the crux moves...
Whew! Made the crux moves...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Ma
Dan Ma

Comments on The Darkhorse Add Comment
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By Topher Dabrowski
May 7, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I used BD equivalent cams 0.2-0.5 and #2
By BrianWilson
From: Brush Prairie, Washington
Apr 18, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The roof crux getting past the last bolt I felt was easily more 10b. Especially comparing with Sugar & Spice which was like a walk in the park compared! I would like to climb this with one of you 10a folks and see what magic spell you use...
By bryans
Sep 17, 2016

I'm pretty positive a right handhold broke under the shattered roof at the last bolt, i.e. the upper crux. I've led this one at least 10 times but yesterday I spent a few minutes trying to "do it the 10a way," and couldn't. Same experience later on toprope. The new sequence felt more like 10b. It's still fun, especially with a bolt at your nose, but just a little harder. Would love some more opinions before I consider bumping the grade up to 10b.

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