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The Dark Side of Oz 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 3,395
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on May 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (77)
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Amy working her way up the arete.


Very fun route with good exposure up a slightly overhanging arete.


Leftmost route on the second tower, on the arete right of the chimney.


12 bolts & chains.

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By Braxtron
From: ...
Mar 23, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of the better climbs here, IMO.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 5, 2007

is this the one with the crux roughly in the middle and the ledge 12 feet below it? i did one (foolishly) with tiny crimps at the start, then the crux bolt in some overhanging rock with a strategically placed ledge for me to break some bones on should i have fallen while clipping. it was the leftmost climb on the other side of the main wall, where you can see thimble peak and tucson between the valley walls. i was told it was a 5.8+, but if this isn't it i don't see the climb here under munchkinland.
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 5, 2007

This is the obvious arete route past the chimney on the same side as the main wall. It's tall and has 12 bolts. The leftmost route (5.8) on the other side (Wall of Waltzing Witches) isn't named in the guidebook, and I don't think it has been posted here. That sounds like the one you're talking about.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 6, 2007

yeah that's probably it. thanks.
By metrozen
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

Hillary Davis has this as a 7+ on her page (thanks for the great work there, Hillary). I think that rating may be a little shy on the crux moves, but everywhere else this is a great time on forgiving rock. Long for the area and tons of fun. I found a few suspiciously hollow flakes and one softball sized chunk that's probably going to blow out soon. Be careful, my pretties!
By Cody M
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This route is a lot of fun with interesting moves all the way up - especially up and over (or around) a small roof/boulder thing near the top that's well protected. Use long draws here in a couple places as the bolts are guarded by sharp edges.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Probably the best easy route here - lots of fun side pulls and moves for
By Lora Rivera
From: Tucson, Arizona
Aug 3, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

A pair of mussy hooks at the anchors.

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