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The Dark Passenger 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: SCherry on Apr 9, 2016

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Access is fragile here: no fixed draws allowed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an awesome route albeit a bit dirt covered. Don't let the dirt discourage you...Its steep and varied with great movement.

Begins at a very prominent left facing corner on the left side of the entry walls. There is a big grey slippery water polished slab below the corner feature. The Limestone Bible says you can protect the start with a few hand size cams. We chose to run it out to the first bolt. The rock is a bit slick but the moves up to here are only about 5.8.

Stem and Jam up the initial corner clipping 2 bolts (long slings recommended). This gains a large ledge with some loose blocks (be careful). Clip up off the ledge and reach to a good rail. Climb the tan face up to a steepening section with big moves between good holds (5.11) and some huge pockets and underclings. A rest is reached under a small roof on the right. Step left from the rest and solve the awesome crux up to jugs (find the thread!) and chains.

Location 

Left side of the canyon at the start of the "Entry Walls" section. This route is before the large panel of pictographs on the right and before the main entry wall on the left with the 4-5 moderate routes.

Protection 

12 bolts to chains, and an optional cam or 2 for the start


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